To the east coast of the Baja we wound, out of the low desert, over the mountains again, to the sandy deserted beaches of Bahia de Los Angeles. This Bay of the Angels is a glorious spot with clear blue waters, empty beaches, hummingbirds, yakking gulls, fishing Reddish Egrets, Long-necked Curlews, Marbled Godwits, and hunting Great Blue Herons. Behind us and across the bay, mist-topped mountains that glowed in the sun added drama to this peaceful setting. The islands in the bay are the tops of mountains raised up by the clashing of plates which, along with volcanic action, have heaved up all these striking mountains that run down the Baja peninsula.
Our stay at the Villa Vitta RV Park was shared with two RVs from Quebec so I got a chance to practice my French. Odd that it was a relief to use French after struggling with Spanish. The bathrooms were not open in the winter so Carol was forced to drive over to the bathroom in the restaurant where we had a delicious breakfast of omelette Mexicano y quesa or a Spanish omelet with cheese par excellence. We are really enjoying the tortillas which, like bread up north, accompany all meals down here. They are fresh, warm and oh so good. Not conducive to dieting unfortunately.
Carol was able to talk one of the gringo fishermen at Dagget's Campground into sharing his catch with us - a happy thing for him since he fishes constantly while visiting down here (this is a fisherman's paradise). We have yet to try the fish but we will. Maybe we'll make fish tacos. Carol also tried to get Cameron onto a fishing boat but that never materialized fortunately because instead, we visited the sea turtle center where he got a chance to scrub algae off the shell and feet of an 8 year old loggerhead turtle named Lilly. That he surely had never done before. We timed it perfectly since they were cleaning the tanks and turtles, so we saw Lilly and the resident green and hawksbill turtles sitting in the tanks and then swimming once the tanks were scrubbed clean and refilled. Lilly was relegated to a separate tank since she is a carnivorous loggerhead and while quite docile with us, had been aggressive with the other turtles. Her face was gentle and sweet - of course I am not a fish or squid awaiting ingestion. This center rehabilitates and releases turtles but does keep some for research and educational programs. As usual, I could not tear myself away from observing their behavior. I was fascinated when Lilly came up, took a long breath and then resubmerged. I wanted Ken to get a shot of her taking another breath, but after half an hour of waiting, we gave up. In the wild they can stay under for an hour.
In the afternoon, we headed for the local museum that was a delightful collection of fossils, shells, animal skeletons, historical memorabilia, geology, ranching and mining remnants and a feel for the life of those who inhabit this land. The museum was a kind of gem tucked away in a not too populated place where an American docent who had become a volunteer at the museum a few years ago welcomed us. Amazing the things one finds traveling abroad. At the suggestion of the docent, we tried to find the rock paintings which adorned the tee shirt Cameron purchased. After traveling on what we thought was the road to the paintings, we gave up, turning around amidst cacti whose needles could have easily punctured the tires. We'll just have to see the other rock paintings elsewhere as we had planned.
Our last night, at Bahia de Los Angeles was another of our fun meals in Carol's camper. After that, we enjoyed the limited power provided by the hotel's generator that gave us power from 5-10 p.m. If we come back another winter, it will be with solar panels so we are self-reliant. While we have a generator and propane, it would be nice to not use consumable fuel. The night was warmer, however, so I was down to two blankets and Ken did not look like an Eskimo this morning. Off to Guerrero Negro we go for our encounter with the grey whales. Can't wait.