The Craigs Return to Ethiopia travel blog

One of the Icon paintings that are located in the Lalibela Churches

The smallest of rock hewn churches called St Georges. Built in 11th...

This was the meal we had at the Jerusalem Guesthouse. The wat...


We were very excited about heading out of Addis Ababa on our northern tour. Our transport is an old 10 yr old Land Cruiser with a few bits missing and our driver is Wondu (Wondoo) After some last minute arrangements at the Travel Agents we made our way out of the city and headed for our first destination which was Kombulcha. The roads started out as bitumen with many repairs but deteriorated into rough stone and gravel. We climbed into the beautiful mountain country and with breath taking views and plenty of pedestrians and animals. Including the occasional camel. Reaching the top we passed through a 500m tunnel built by the Italians during their occupation in the 30's and 40's. One the other side was a road worthy of the Swiss Alps and we all enjoyed the relief this brought to our rattling vehicle and us. Unfortunately as light faded and we got closer to our destination the road works started with detours and muddy sections to make the going very slow and agonising. Reaching the hotel was a good news for all and we were impressed with standard of the hotel considering the surrounding town.

Next Day was an early start at 6:00am and more of the same. The overnight rain damped the dust down. For those of you who think that Ethiopia is a flat dry country then we need to let you know that this part of the country rises to 7500 ft with views to travel half way round the world to see. We arrived at Lalibela at around 5:00pm and settled into Jerusalem Guesthouse - a modern and well appointed hotel with a beautiful view out over the valley and mountains in the distance.

Next day we were shown through the amazing rock churches of Lalibela that have been carved down into the rock. The history suggests that the King with the angels (and assistance of 4,000 people) carved these rock churches based on Jewish tabernacle design with holy of holies, holy area and a general access area within each church. There are 7 all in one area and were made underground to protect them from destruction during wars with muslim forces from the north. To see manuscripts and other items dating back up to 900 years is quite awesome. The fact that they are living churches with monks and nuns living spartan experiences in holes around the complex is also a thing of wonder. There are many other similar churches in the region that we just didn't have the time to visit and explore. Enjoyed a great meal of traditional Ethiopian fare at hotel restaurant on our last night and all very reasonably priced.

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