Fés has a totally different feel than Marrakesh. Whereas Marrakesh had the big square (Djemaa el-Fna) where much of the action took place, Fés doesn't have a big central square where you could sit and watch the action. All of the action here was deep in the labrinth of narrow alleyways that made up the souqs and ultimately, the medina.
We found we got hassled (and hustled) a bit more here. Everyone thought I was Japanese and Nigel was British, so we were seen as walking yen and GB pound signs. A bit sad, really. But once we got used to it and tried a few tricks of our own we didn't get reems of kids wanting to show us to the tanneries for a few bucks, or to guide us to the nearest carpet shop and the like.
We did manage to find our own way through the maze to the tanneries, and getting lost along the way was just part of the fun. The tanneries didn't smell nearly as bad as it could have as it's winter (part of the ingredients are: pigeon poop, cow urine, and various animal parts --yum!). The workers get right into the pits, too --one guy was thigh deep in a pit of red dye swishing the skins around with his hands. It was pretty interesting to watch.
On our way back out of the medina, we decided that our trip to Morocco should be remembered by getting a magic carpet. So off we went, this time of our own free will, to a carpet shop. We went to one run by a Berber Tribe co-operative, and after a good hour or so, emerged relatively unscathed with a mat-sized, red cactus silk carpet that was made by a Berber woman from a village in the High Atlas near Ouarzazate. It will make a good wall hanging (somewhere... ha ha ha!).