|Cuba's public transport harldy deserves the word "mess"- in lots of places it's simply nonexistent. There isn't even a bus from Remedios, so we were looking at a taxi to take us back to Santa Clara to catch the bus down to our next stop, Trinidad. Then Steve and Annie stepped in to save our bacon- they decided that they would go on a day-trip to Trinidad and take us with them.
Trinidad is supposed to be one of the musical hotspots of Cuba and certainly there was a lot going on. You could even go a whole evening without hearing anything from the Buena Vista social club, something pretty well impossible in Havana. after Remedios, the town seemed a rather touristy, with horseriding, cycle hire, diving and various other things on offer, including loads of "dollar restaurants", which Cubans cannot afford. They also seemed to have larger paint ration than usual, so the centre at least was all very prettily pastel. A few streets further out if fell back into normal Cuban shabbiness which seemed to make the rest look slightly unreal, even false.
These contrasts are everywhere in Cuba- we stayed in one casa with a front room full of antiques and a pigpen out the back. Never did manage to get used to it though.