Ive taken yet another overnight train, this time to the town of Turpan, in Western China. Its here that I notice for the first time the muslim influence of China, and its Uigher population.
I've hired a taxi for the day from a very happy go lucky guy called Gilan, who takes me to an old Uigher village called Toyuq. Its just about on the tourist trail, and this being China there's an entrance fee into Toyuq. Whilst there I met three Americans and we follow each other around for an hour or so, and one of them is brave enough to get his beard trimmed by a street barber. The village is very old and falling down in parts, but I found it very absorbing. The nearby buddist caves unfortnately are not worth visiting, as nearly all of their contents were stolen by German and British archeologists about a hundred or so years ago.
The next place I visit is a karez tourist site, which gives an insight into the thousand year old underground irrigation system used to take water from the mountains to the towns and villages below, thus supplying water to desert areas. I've heard one or two good reports regarding this site, but to be honest its a bit of a let down. Finally its onto the mud-built ruins of Jiaohe, which is deserted old city not far from Turpan, and is well worth a visit.