Sea of Cortez, Baja California travel blog

Loreto Harbor

Hotel Tripui and the Tripui Peaks at Puerto Escondido

Puerto Escondido

Day 6 started with a short leg to Punta Chivato where a quick fuel top off was made before heading down the relatively isolated Gulf coast on the East side of Bahia Concepcion. This is a beautiful, white sandy cove with just a few campers in front of the Posada de las Flores (Punta Chivato) Hotel. Flyers describing the missing aircraft were left with one of the relatively "permanent" campers on the beach. Crossing the bay at the mouth of the Bahia de Concepcion was magnificent with changes of water color from deep green to an almost an almost iridescent light green in random patterns. The Sea of Cortez was formerly (and in some places is still) known as the "Bermejo", or Vermillion, Sea.

A couple of very small fishing camps were spotted along the Eastern shore of the Concepcion peninsula and missing aircraft flyers were left when possible. The next fuel top-off was made at San Sebastion, a little pebble beach inlet in the Bay of San Nicolas just South of the peninsula. San Sebastion seemed to be an enclave of about 8 very nice homes, mostly owned by Americans, on long term leases from one of the residents; The fishing Ejido of San Nicolas is about ten miles further South in the same bay. Moderate chop was encountered for the rest of the ride to Loreto and the well-protected harbor was reached about 4pm.

PICTURE: Loreto Harbor

The closest Pemex station to Loreto Harbor, which primarily houses fishing pangas, is about two km away. Miraculously, a character of a gentleman who introduced himself as "Alberta Al" appeared out of nowhere, with his dog, to offer a soft drink and the use of his diesel "dually" to truck the empty fuel containers into town for refilling. Alberta Al slipped away (much as McGee had done at Bahia Gonzaga) after his good deeds were done! As there was still quite a bit of daylight remaining, and Puerto Escondido was only 17 miles down the coast, the decision to continue on to that port, for an overnight, was taken.

Puerto Escondido is indeed a "Hidden Harbor", surrounded by what looks like three volcanoes and entered from the South side. Once inside, it has the feel of an infinity pool created by the low sea walls between the "volcanoes". There are many boats at anchor in the harbor but still lots of room for others. The land facility is dominated by a big new (and, again, greatly under-utiliized for the moment) Fonatur facility. The fuelling dock here is now in service and is open from 8am to 4pm with a 22% surcharge (well worth it!). Once again, the security guards were the ones (and only ones) to look to for a ride to lodgings.

The nearest hotel to Puerto Escondido is the Hotel Tripui, which is perhaps 1km away. This is a gem of a lodge; brand new, and adjacent to the old Tripui Trailer Park and reportedly under the same ownership. Although it is just getting going, the hotel offers excellent dining in charming, well-decorated surroundings, a very nice pool and rooms that want for nothing. The hotel, located in an oasis with the Tripui peaks behind it provide a charming ambience and its small, but very pleasant staff are anxious to please. Even though breakfast was not normally served until 8 am, after the planned departure time, fresh squeezed orange juice, a mélange of paypaya, bananas and melon plus toast and coffee was provided at 0715.

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