Hopset/HampiDec 13, 2004
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Blessed by an Elephant
Flower Vendor
Children
| Hello Friends, Three weeks on the road have revealed some incredible scenes and experiences. We are also noticing that some things are beginning to wear on us like the beggars, hawkers and cow dung in the streets. It goes against our natures to not be compassionate, but like Chris has written, the only way not to be mobbed is to walk by stone-faced and non-responsive to "hello, what is your name..." As we came down out of the coffee growing area in Coorg toward Mysore, we stopped at the Tibetan Settlements to see one of the huge monastaries housing over 2,500 buddhist monks. The grounds were immaculate and we could see by the banners and miles of ropes with small flags strung up everywhere, people sweeping, and artists painting elaborate sacred symbols on the long entry-way sidewalk that they were preparing for some kind of special occasion. We soon learned that they were expecting the Dalai Lama to visit there that afternoon. After visiting the huge temple with carpet seating for several thousand people and three huge golden buddhas in the altar area, we jumped back in the bus and headed for the next settlement down the road where the Dalai Lama was said to be speaking. In fact, he was there is a huge outdoor pavillion with thousands of red-robed monks and other Tibetan people sitting under the awnings and trees listening quitely to His Holiness' words amplified on speakers. We of course could not understand his teachings because of language, but at one point, there was some electronic feedback, and we could hear him comment and laugh in that infectious and self-depricating way that he has. It was a lovely experience to come upon so unexpectedly. We figured that our friend Barry, Tenzin Chorap, was somewhere in the crowd, but be did not happen to run into him. Hopefully, our planned reunion with him will take place later this month. In Mysore, we visited the renown Maharaja's Palace which was incredibly beautiful and grand, with parade grounds and gardens covering about four city blocks. India no longer allows Maharajas any power, but the decendant of the place's builder still lives on the grounds. The oppulence of the place defies decription; sold gold flags, solid silver thrones, camel and elephants with full regalia on the grounds, inlaid doors, mosaic tile patterns on columns and floors, and painted ceiling covered with gold leaf. We also visited the Chamundi Hill temple one of seven sacred hills in southern India. The downside was having to walk through rows of beggars lining the walkways, some with hideous physical maladies. The temple is dedicated to the monkey god and fittingly, there were scads of wild monkeys roaming around the premises. We happend upon a ceremony, in a small 800 year old temple, in which the Brahmin priests dressed in white half robes were carrying the statue of the god in a litter around the temple, all the while accompanied by drumming and a reedy sounding horn which looks like an elongated clarinet. Facinating. People bring coconuts as offerings along with flowers to the temple. When you place your offering on the altar, the priest gives out holy water and places a red powered dot on the forehead of the supplicant. Hindu's seem pretty accepting of foreigners in their temples and allow us to participate as we wish as take photos in all but the very most internal part of the sanctuary. We moved on to the really big city of Bangalore with 6 million people, home of India's IT industry. In fact, we saw Service Center and Insurance companies along the road into town; the type of places that all our inquiry calls for service are handled. We entertained ourselves with a little shopping as we waited to board our next sleeper train. I bought a Salwar Kameez, which is a dress with slits up the sides with matching long diaphanous (sp?) pants and a chiffon shawl which is worn across the neck in front with the tails hanging down the back. Chris bought a very regal long embroidered robe with matching pants, long gold scarf and sultan-type slippers to match. I hope there is a costume party or an Indian wedding sometime soon... Hope all is well with you with only ten days til Christmas! love, Ellen |
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