Topday I'm in Chiclayo, northern Peru. Left Cuzco yesterday morning somewhat groggy after an unsettled night (not uncommon before an early flight- I had to get up at 5 to be at the airport on time) and all my Peruvian gringo friends coming back to the hostel at 330am pissed and waking me up for a laugh. An English chap called Rick who we met in Machu Picchu was on the same flight to Lima so we had lunch together before he took his bus to Huaraz. I spent the rest of the day in a Lima cybercafe and caught the 7pm service for Chiclayo, arriving twelve hours or so later, to book into a hotel on the main square, shower and breakfast on roast goat and strawberry milkshake, then sleep until mid afternoon.
I have tomorrow to look around (ruins etc) then another night bus to a place called Chachapoyas where there is some spectacular archaeology, then the back roads to the Ecuador border.
It's great being off the main gringo trail. I have seen half a dozen foreigners in town today, but that's nothing after the Cuzco and Machu Picchu area where the whole economy revolves around tourism and you can't walk down the street without being hassled by restauranteurs, kids selling postcards, or women with llamas wanting you to pay them for a photo.
Next day...the second museum- the one you can´t take cameras into (of course), was totally speactacualr. A tomb, discovered in the mid eighties, containg royal burials, with the main protagonists being a father and son, buried with representatives of their households (wives, children, dogs, soldiers, priests, llamas ans just piles of gold an jewellery. Not much is known about who they were, which is good cos I´m about historied out now. I have one more ruin to go, Kuelap, which I think will be the worth the hassle and them I´m strictly beaches for a while!