The Tongariro Crossing

Today we decided to tackle our first real hike. We were in good spirits; the van was running well and we had soaked in all sorts of hot pools of ick so we were both feeling a bit like gumby on valium. So we went to the park transit office to arrange to be picked up after the hike (it is one-way in). Unfortunately, we had just missed the last bus for drop-off. No problem, the guide said, just hike in to the highest point (about 2/3 of the way) and hike back out. It should take around 6 hours. The guide suggested that we take the mountain ridgeline back instead of covering the same ground and no, it was no problem that there was no marked trail, we couldn't miss it, he said. Great, we thought, so we bought some light snacks for lunch, stocked up on water and drove to the trail head. The trail began beautifully. It was very scenic and the walk took us up Soda Springs Stream along Mount Ngauruhoe. To be honest, I couldn't believe how easy the walk was, it is listed as one of the 8 Great Walks of New Zealand. We were bouncing along feeling light as a feather and then....I couldn't see the trail. There were plenty of people milling about and they didn't seem concerned but I could not figure out what had happened to the trail. And then I looked up. Straight up. The trail path took us right over the damn mountain ridge to the base of the volcano. I was more than a little surprised but I took it well. After all, I had been walking non-stop for weeks before we left (on the beach, at sea level) and fancied myself to be in good shape. Let me tell you, the climb was absolutely grueling. As I struggled up, barely moving, people were wizzing past with not a care, carrying huge, heavy laden packs. Obviously, they had done this before. About halfway up, my eyes began to burn as if they were on fire. I soon realized that my sun screen was sweating into my eyes and I could see nothing. Matt was very sympathetic, he helped me wash them out but it took awhile (and he was using our precious water supply...but that's okay right, because we had enough?). Finally pulled myself together and made it the rest of the way to the top. When we got to the top (what we thought was the top), there were no scenic views, no beautiful vistas, just desert-like mountain. It must be what Mars is like. And to add insult to injury, the people with the heavy laden packs were halfway up the adjoining mountain volcano, Mount Ngauruhoe. People actually hike to the top of this thing (three hours return) and continue on the original walk. No, thanks - we had just climbed 2,300 feet in an hour. We saw that the path continued up and we were in it at this point so we decided to keep going. The payoff was Red Crater and Emerald Lakes. They were very nice, but truly, not worth it. After we ate our last snack we decided to head back. We saw the "trail" along the ridgline and it seemed well traveled so we decided to do it, why not? I will tell you why not. For one thing, it took us to the summit (this was not in the plan) of Mount Tongariro at a staggering, heart-breaking 6,600 feet. It was pure hell. But the fun had just begun. When we got to the top, the "path"completely disappeared, it was nowhere to be found. We really did not know what to do. But there was only one thing to do. Descend back down to the original path. With no path, we pretty much climbed down 3 separate ravines to get to the bottom. 3 separate ravines because no single one went straight to the bottom without a deadly drop-off. I do not mean to alarm you folks back home, but it was a bad scenario to find ourselves in with no food and very little water. We did make it back however, thankfully before dark and I have never, nor will ever, be so happy to see a dumpy old camper van as I was that day. Lesson learned- NEVER LEAVE MARKED TRAIL. If we had gotten back earlier, I am convinced Matt would have kicked that guide's ass. Oh, and by the way, it took us every minute of 8 hours.

Next....off to Wellington.

10 Mar 2007

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