The Travelling Mayhews travel blog

After a particularly shitty four-hour, 20km/hr bone crunching dust-biting bus ride through the highlands, we arrived in Esteli, stronghold of the revolution and home to the best cigars outside Habana.

We've had a few culinary treats during this trip. The lobster and fresh fish in the Corn islands were great, as were the roadside tacos and tostados. We were more mystfied the other night when Juan's seafood soup came served with a ping pong ball in it. After much tentative poking and prodding with a fork we guessed it was butter wrapped in a paper ball. Only when Juan asked the waitress 'what the hell is this thing in my soup?' did she reveal it was a turtle's egg. She then went behind the bar and fell into hysterics. Nice.

Then yesterday Juan confidently ordered ropa vieja straight off the menĂº in impressively perfect Spanish. It translates as 'old clothes' - we knew that but the waitress still raised an eyebrow. Never a good sign. Turns out it's actually shredded beef which tastes like..., well, old clothes. Mystery solved.

Tonight we are going to a famous Sandinista bar to dance with the heroes of the revolution, at which point Juan intends to smoke his first Cuban cigar and grow a Che Guevara beard.

Tomorrow it's the bus to Honduras, a land of rice, beans, forest and men in cowboy hats. Nothing like Nicaragua at all...

J y R

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