Shigatse

The following morning after arriving in Shigatse, we walked over to the Tashilhunpo monastery, founded in 1447 by the 1st Dalai Lama. It is the former home of the Panchen Lama, the next highest lama after the Dali Lama. Several years ago, the Chinese government kidnapped the Panchen Lama (then 6 years old...now I believe he's 16) and his family, placing them under arrest. Their location and well-being is still undisclosed but some are convinced the Chinese government executed the family. Having removed the Buddhist lama, the Chinese government then appointed their own Panchen Lama. Apparently it is the duty of the Panchen Lama to select the next Dali Lama and vice versa. Now with a Chinese appointed Panchen Lama, the next Dali Lama will most likely be a politically appointed successor, thus exterminating the true Buddhist lineage.

While we were touring the monastery, we asked one of the monks a question about the throne we were viewing. The monk, quite friendly and happy, was eager to answer our questions. He asked us where we were from. When we stated, the US, he quickly responded "we love Americans" then cautiously whispered "but we don't like the Chinese". According to Lonely Planet, the Chinese government has infiltrated the monasteries with spies posing as monks. This unfortunately wouldn't suprise me.

The monastery complex was surrounded by a white wall, with prayer wheels recessed into them. Adam and I joined the kora of pilgrims and circled the complex, spinning the prayer wheels clockwise as we shuffled along. Along the route, many pilgrims had built temporary (or what I assumed to be temporary) housing structures to allow them to worship for the remainder of their pilgrimage or until they had saved enough money to make the return journey home. From the top of the kora, you could view the ruins of an ancient fort under restoration...unfortunately closed to vistors.

Oct 29, 2006

Show all 8 photos