Day 6 and 7 ' Los Arcos to Viana to Logrono to Navarette26 Sep 2006
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Well some of the blisters are almost healed, but others are still painful, but on a more positive note the hole being made in my back by the rucksack has been holted mainly by a nice Canadian chap adjusting the straps, and a large piece of foam.
Because of the blisters I am trying to walk no more than 20 to 23 k each day. The alternative is to have a rest day, but I will see how this works first.
The last two days have again been sunny, with a slight breeze. There was heavy rain but it was all through the night - so good planning. I passed the wine fountain, but unfortunately by the time I got there it was dry! But walking along there are blackberries to pick and fresh figs, and occasionally a small bunch of the black grapes.
Have been lucky with the accommodation. There are various types of Auberge for Pilgrims. There are private, family run ones, which are generally of a good standard, more personal and smaller than others, and even for 8 euros provides breakfast. Then there are municipal and church run auberge. Some of these have permanent staff and others are run by volunteers. One volunteer was from South America, others from France and Denmark. Some places offer free massages to pilgrims. Last night I stayed in a Church one and it was a lovely experience. The accommodation was in the back of the huge church, and there were two rooms for sleeping (with mattresses on the floor), but a lovely dining room overlooking the central square. The volunteer couple in charge were from France. There was no set charge. It was donations only. There was an invitation to Mass at 8 pm. As the Mass was ending the pilgrims were invited to the front while the congrigation sang. The local people then left while the Priest gave us a Pilgrim blessing and advice for the road, which he did in Spanish and repeated in English. It was very moving. We were then to a communal meal in the Auberge, and the Priest came to. After the meal the Priest did prayers and played his guitar. It was quite a memorable evening.
There are some very interesting people walking. Some of the people I have met over the last few days are a woman lawyer from Australia, a medical student from Germany, and a journalist from South America. I have walked for the last couple of days with Powla, who is an immigration officer from Finland and yesterday we met a muslim man who was telling us that last year he completed a 22 month peace walk from Jerusalem to Santiago
with a Christian and a Jew. They did lectures along the way.
There is also Robert. Robert is from Ireland, but for the last 6 years has been in the US Navy. He is not blessed with a lot of tact. He asked the only black lad on the walk (so far) if he could take a photo of him because he is black, and he asked me if he could take a photo of me so that he could show people back at work that old people do the walk.
The waymarkings are excellent, even through towns, so it is not easy to get lost.
A group of us are planning to cook and eat together this evening, so I will close now.
Love Gwen
