Alexes Abroad travel blog

Walk through olive groves, Cres, Croatia

Alex G on walk through olive groves, Cres, Croatia

Alex S near Cres, Croatia

Krk, Croatia

Coast and Islands

The Dalmatian coast and the islands were beautiful in good weather. Walking along the walls of a Venetian fortified town with clear, aqua water lapping many metres below, or having a coffee or a beer looking out over bobbing boats, is as good as it sounds. We had enough good weather to be able to appreciate why this part of the world is so popular. Unfortunately however there was a fair bit of grey inbetween, and there were only a couple of days towards the end when the idea of swimming in the water became attractive (and then the water was positively seductive).

We found the rocky coast, with the little level concrete areas for sunbathing, and ladders for getting in and out of the water, rather strange. However, it does mean you can dive straight into the water, which is nice, and there is no sand to get in your clothes - even better.

Krk - Cres. Most notable:

1) place where it bucketed down a few hours after we'd washed (for 7 euros) and hung out to dry ALL of our clothes

2) astonishing quantity of dry stone walls dividing up the olive-grove planted hillside

3) lots of nice harbour towns with bobbing boats and lovely views

Sibenik. Most notable:

1) cute little old town with a particularly large number of forts

2) beautiful Cathedral of St James, made entirely of stone, including the roof (damaged during the recent war, but repaired), with a really amazing baptistry

3) the Church of St Barbara, with a facade covered in an eclectic collection of niches and shields

Primosten, an unbelievably picturesque former island (it's been joined to the mainland)

Trogir. Most notable:

1) another former island

2) particularly complete cute little old town

3) the biggest boat in the harbour was Australian

Salona, an extensive collection of better-than-average Roman ruins with an unusual backdrop of an industrial estate

Split. Most notable:

1) cute little old town

2) the (very extensive) Diocletian's [retirement] Palace (Diocletian was a Roman Emperor), which was later taken over and renovated by the persecuted Christians fleeing Salona

Peljesac Peninsula. Most notable:

1) the home of our favourite Croatian wine (No idea what it is called, but there is a picture of a donkey on the label)

2) day walk to Svete Ilja, with great views of Korcula and the peninsula, wildflowers and forest

Korcula. Most notable:

1) cute little old town

2) allegedly the birthplace of Marco Polo

3) apparently a very popular day trip from Dubrovnik amongst English-speaking tourists

3) accidental witnessing of the local Corpus Christi procession, which was quite fun (although not a patch on the Cuzco, Peru, celebrations)

Pag. Most notable:

1) one of the most barren-looking, but strangely fascinating/alluring, places we've ever seen (wind-blasted for much of the year)

2) Roman salt works still operating

3) famous for sheep cheese, but we could not find any to buy despite concerted efforts

Dubrobnik. Most notable:

1) ultimate cute little old town with absolutely amazing walls (which you walk around) (and should you be there, we recommend the audioguide) with views and a city centre to match

2) (sad confession from AG) it has had a planning scheme since the 12th century, and it shows (in a good way)

3) it lived up to the hype, which we would not have thought possible

4) severely damaged during the Croatia-Serbia war (NB: disputed by the Serbs) but beautifullly restored

5) the Croatia-Serbia war is mentioned often (whenever possible) and there are some pretty sad pictures taken during the conflict

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