The Peloponnese is pretty special. We'd just left magical Mystras - a Byzantine city of churches, monasteries and palaces sprawled across the side of a leafy mountain overlooking a lush green valley - when we came to this conclusion. You see more signs on the Peloponnese for ancient ruins and historic sites than you see elsewhere in Greece and if you spontaneously take some of these detours, you'll be richly rewarded. While they may not be as popular as the Peloponnese's well-trodden World-Heritage listed 'big five' - Byzantine Mystras and Ancient Olympia, Mycenae, Epidavros and Corinth - the experience of visiting them can be just as memorable.
Besides the ruins, two places have cast a spell on us in the Peloponnese. One is Gythio, a pretty port town of colourful Venetian houses not far from Monemvasia. It has fishing boats bobbing in its bay and waterside tavernas with octopus hanging like clothes on a washing line. We stopped to take another look at the Marathonisi Islet. While this tiny island with its little whitewashed church is fetching, it's knowing this was where (according to ancient mythology) Helen of Sparta and Paris of Troy consummated their love that lead to the Trojan War, that makes it more romantic.
The wild Mani is another place we're mad about. This rugged, mountainous peninsula in the south is split into two regions, the Lakonian and Messinian Mani. Driving along its dramatic winding roads is an adventure in itself, but stopping to explore its traditional villages with their unique Maniot stone architecture is a delight. Knowing the region's history adds another dimension to your experience. When nearby Mystras fell to the Ottomans in the 15th century, the people of the Mani managed to maintain autonomous control of their region. One of the leaders of the Greek War of Independence was a Maniot. This explains the Maniot's strong-mindedness and resilience - we like to think this strength and passion for the land is what's enabled it to remain pristine and full of character.
Of the Mani's many atmospheric villages, Kardamili, a charming cobblestone town of seaside stone houses is our favorite, and makes a great base for exploring the area. Last time we visited we spontaneously stopped the car, quickly changed, and dove into its clear cold waters for a swim. This time we're working and we have places to see, but still the place charms and intrigues. Perhaps even more.
Lela's Rooms remains the pick of many traditional places to stay and the spot to eat home-style cooking by the sea is Lela's Tavern. Lela was once the cook and housekeeper to the great travel writer (Sir) Patrick Michael Leigh Fermor, known to Kardamili locals as 'Mr Michalis'. Fermor was one of the first foreign travellers to walk the Mani. Reading his 'Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese' (1958) is a must. While there's been much debate on web forums recently as to whether he's still alive, Lela's daughter-in-law, Maria, assures us that the sweet old guy is well and truly around and his Kardamili home is now a masterpiece of local stone architecture. Maria's husband Giorgos and his brother grew up in the house, and Maria and Giorgos run Notos (www.notoshotel.gr) - they can book you a room at Lela's or at their wonderful stone hamlet. Thanks to Maria, Giorgis and the people of Kardamili, there is a network of well-maintained paths for walking. And photographing wildflowers!
