'half the world': a sojourn from istanbul to isfahan travel blog

fruit & vegetable market


shops below day stands above

trabzon beach

aya sofya




pockets of activity

market shed

aya sofya & the black sea


black sea


dear nader,

this place is smart! everyone is all jetset & looking like they're going out in taksim on a saturday night. plus, i can blend in here! not because i appear jetset, i'm still as big of a schlepp as ever, but because i can play up my high cheek bones, look really stern & pass for russian. why? because there's a bit of a russian dispora here. to practice fitting in, i watch moscow tv in my hotel room. sometimes the news, soemtimes bad flics, but mostly surreal cartoons. sometimes abstract, like those on an aeroflot flight, & always as bizare. thing is, i haven't actually spoken or heard any speak russian yet. i think georgian, & perhaps armenian, but russian, not since hasankeyf surprisingly, surprisingly 'cause that town is mostly arab & turk, & far from the russian border.

quoi d'autre? oh yeah, i'm returning to istanbul tomorrow. my application for an iranian visa is now under 'investigation', so i probably won't get my hands on that stamp until i return home or something. oh well, can't say i haven't tried. i mean the mullahs in tehran & i, we're tight now!

peace. andrew

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