Tripping 2005/06 travel blog


Remembering the Falklands

I am from Czech, honest

A big pink house

Stuning architecture

One of the many churches

He's got his hands full

Outside the cemetary

It's not a row of houses, but graves

It's bigger than mum's house

Doesn't look anything like Madonna

The grandest bookshop ever

Full of books and style

From the 3rd floor

We want this shop


And oh ye, more books

Having fun with Lisa and Tom

One of many

The colourful Boca

Painted for the tourist

Come in and tango

Just like that

Piece of the plaza

Another nice building

Give me another one to eat

City of angels

Marble cribs

Beautiful reflection

Evita's grave

Roof tops of a fashion

You stay down there

MTV cribs

Tiny town

Steve's photo from a top of a grave


1/4 Got a cub at 7pm and reached the train station in 10min. Train's not going till 8am. Managed to get a breakfast at the station. Train station is old and dirty, oozing character. The train itself is pretty much the same. We as per usual, have the worst seats on the train. Facing into another two seats with no leg room. The two people sitting, facing us, have more bags than you can shake a stick at. So, we end up facing them with bags between our legs. Train rumbled on till 3pm. Wasn't that bad. When we got fed up of sitting with our legs under us, we went to the food carriage, which in itself was weird. Just normal old wooden tables and chairs and lots of smoke. At BA train station we somehow manage to get metro to San Telmo and get to the hotel we wanted without getting lost. Hotel costs 36 pesos/night. For this we get a big room, TV, table and chairs. And for this price we don't mind getting our own breakfast. Dropped off the bags and went exploring San Telmo. It has a weekend market, that we wandered through. Made our way to a restaurant recommended by LP. Here they cook all the meat over an open grill. Lenka had chicken, Steve went for a steak in some sauce. Just like the room - cheap and good. Think we're going to like BA.

2/4 Got up around 9.30, just over the road from our hotel is a small coffee shop. Here we get breakfast for a stupid price of 7pesos for both (cheap). Take the metro into town and get off at San Martin. All the shops are closed here as it's Sunday. But that's OK as there aren't many people around. Made our way to Florida pedestionised street. Here everything is open. Walked into a shopping mall and find a tourist information. The girl advised us to go to San Telmo as there is an antique market and tango shows. We took a leisurelly strall through Florida, taking a side trip to look at the Obelisc and Plaza de Mayo. A number of demonstrations are under way. We found a black bag so we reported it to the police. They just laughed. We have decided to pretend that we are both from Czech as they are remembering the Falklands war. We arrived in San Talmo, having seen many beautiful buildings. Lots of people, many buskers and a few music set ups. We saw some tango dancing, found an internet and went for dinner. Restaurant we wanted to go to was closed, so we ended up in a pizza place. After 30min waiting we've ordered. We both went for pasta. After a while the food arrived but Lenka's pasta with vegetables had no vegetables in it. We had a little moan, but they still put on a service charge.

3/4 Got up around 9.30 again and again went to the same cafe. Then we headed to the Retiro bus station (very big). Bought bus tickets to Puerto Iguazu for Thursday. We walked through Recoleta and had lunch in a park. On the way saw many professional dog-walkers. Found Cementerio de la Recoleta, which is one of the grandest graveyards you ever see. It's like a small gothic village, made out of marble and granite tombs. Here is where Evita is burried. You could get lost for hours wandering around here, and we do

just that. Lenkie said is great, but is also one of the most impresonnal and coldest places to rest - no grean, no flowers, no place to sit and talk. More walking into Santa Fe Avenue. Here we found bookshop El Ataneo, which is the another grand place in BA. It once was a theatre and has a domed roof with all the original features. It's pretty cool place. Headed back to the hotel for a quick shower and change. Going out for dinner with a friend of a friend who lives here. Meeting in the Marriott. We turned up in our best backpacking cloths and are made to feel as welcome as a fart in a spacesuit. Found Lisa and Tom, well they found us as we stood out as sore thumb. A short trip to a pizzerea. It was a nice place, a bit retro. After ages of talking we have finally ordered 2 large pizzas. After 3 hours of dinner and talk we said goodbye and made our way to the metro, that was closed?? It was only 11.20 and people everywhere. How do they get home? Taxi it is.

4/4 Got up late and went for breakfast. Walked to a bus stop and found a many more beautiful buildings. Got bus 152 to Boca. This colourfull neighbourhood and home to Boca Jr. is very touristy, although at this time not so busy. Went to look at the stadium, but did not take the tour. Watched the tango show after a nice lunch in a very cheap diner. Back on the bus (64) this time we got off at Plaza de Mayo. Tried to get some Brazilian money, but as it was after 4pm all the banks were closed. Went to do some internet, but found our memory card corrupted and our card reader broke. Got a new one (59pesos), found a photo shop with a good old Kodak machine and managed to get the photos onto a CD. Hurah, crises over. Went to a bookshop and bought 5 books worth 170pesos. Went home on the busiest tube ever. Had a shower and went out for dinner into Parrilla (steak house) called El Desnivel and had a mixed grill. It was great.

5/4 In the morning same old routine. Lenka had a haircut. A bit shorter than she wanted but very nice (says Steve). Walked down towards the Institute of Ingeneering and somehow managed to end up at Plaza de Mayo again. Changed some money over and went for walk on Florida. Found the legendary, but expensive looking Cafe Tortoni. Went for a cup of tea elsewhere, done the internet and it was time to return home. Qucik nap before dinner at El Desnivel, as the La Vieja Rotisseria was closed.

6/4 Checked out, sat in a café for couple of hours. Steve's turn to have a haircut. Planning to have lunch at La Vieja Rotisseria and off to the bus stop. Went for lunch and from here it all went horribly wrong. Lenka's bag got stolen. It had passports, camery, cards and some little money. Restaurant didn't give a dam, just asked us to leave. After lots of running around and panicing, thinking this is not happening we cancelled the cards, got a lift to the police station. Policemen were really good, one of them who spoke English love James Bond and Die Hard. Scary really to think he carries a firearm. Booked back into the hotel, same room as before. Managed to change bus tickets twice for no extra charge. Believe it or not, we bought the same camera that we had stolen. Tomorrow we are going to the embassy to get new passports.

7/4 Got up at 7am and straight out. Made our way to the embassy. Had to fill in a couple of forms, paid 900 pesos (about 200 pounds). Come back at 13.30 and should have new passports. Really all things considered we got off light. Now we're gonna have to be more careful. Once we got the passports we went back to the graveyard where Steve tried out the new camera. Organised to get the cash card send to BA or Santiago.

8/4 Managed to get a late check out. As luck would have it TV was showing Spurs. So Steve stayed and watched whilst Lenka went for breakfast. Left at midday and took the bags to the bus station. Put them in lockers and just for a change went for a walk around BA. Went to the cinema and then had dinner in a local cheap cafe. Got the bus at 7pm. On board we have a bus hostes, we get dinner, snacks, cold and hot drinks and breakfast. We have splashed out on Cama bus (fully reclining seats).

1.4 Vzali jsme si taxi v 7hodin a dojeli na nadrazi behem 10minut. Vlak jel az v 8. Podarilo se nam najit snidani. Nadrazi je stare a spinave a ma hodne charakteru. Vlak je to same. Jako obvykle my jsme vyfasovali ty nejhorsi sedadla. Sedime naproti 2 klukum se spousty taskami. Neni tam zadne misto pro nohy a jeste ke vsemu jejich batohy. Neni to tak zle - trochu jsme se prospali a zasli do jidelnaku. Ten byl taky zvlastni - normalni stoly a zidle a tolik koure. Dojeli jsme do BA v 15.00. Nejak se nam podarilo najit spravne metro a dojet do San Telma, najit nas hotel aniz bychom se ztratili. Pokoj stoji 36 pesos. Je to nejlevnejsi pokoj v cele Argentine. Mame velikansky pokoj, televizi, stul a zidle a tak nam ani nevadi, ze tu neni kuchyn. Odhodili jsme batohy a vyrazili do San Telma. Je tu trh, po kterem jsme se prosli. Zasli jsme na veceri do restaurace doporucene LP. Vsechno maso je grilovane na otevrenem grilu. Ja si dala kure a Steve steak. Jako nas hotel, jidlo bylo levne a dobre. Mame pocit, ze se nam tu bude libit.

2.4 Vstavali jsme kolem 9.30 a sli na snidane do malinke pekarny pres ulici. Platili jsme jen 7 pesos, coz je velice levne. Sli jsme na metro a dojeli do San Martin. Vsechny obchody byly zavrene, ale ani nam to moc nevadilo, protoze tu nebylo moc lidi. Dosli jsme na Florida ulici, kde bylo spoustu otevrenych obchodu a lidi. Je to dlouha promenada. Zasli jsme do obchodniho domu a nasli jsme turisticke informace. Divka nam poradila abychom sli do San Telma, protoze v nedeli maji trh a vsude na ulici se hraje muzika a tanci se. Prosli jsme se Floridou a sli se podivat na obelisk a Plaza de Mayo. Vsude byly demonstrace a my se rozhodli predstirat ze jsme oba z Cech, protoze oni slavili Falklands valku. Nasli jsme tasku pod lavickou a nahlasili to policii, ale oni se nam jen smali. Sasci. Dosli jsme do San Telma a vsude byly mraky lidi. Bylo to hezke. Nasli jsme internet a chteli jit na veceri. Restaurace kterou jsme si vybrali byla zavrena a tak jsme skoncili v pizerii. Po 30ti minutach cekani jsme si obednali testoviny. Moje testoviny se zeleninou mi dali bez zeleniny. My jsme si postezovali, ale nikam nas to nedostalo. I si nauctovali dizko. Drizouni.

3.4 Opet jsme vstavali v 9.30 a opet jsme meli snidani v pekarne. Metrem jsme dojeli do k Retiro autobusovemu nadrazi a koupili jizdenky do Puerto Iguazu. Nadrazi je obrovitanske. Dosli jsme do recoleta a naobedvali se v parku. Cestou jsme videli profesionalni 'venkovniky psu'. Nasli jsme Cementerio de la Recoleta, ktere je jednim z nejhonosnejsim hrbitovem jake jsme kdy videli. Je to jako mala vesnice, postavena z bileho a cerneho mramoru. Evita je tu pohrbena. Prochodili jsme tu hodiny a malem se i ztratili. Ja si ale myslim, ze je to nejstudenejsi hrbitov, protoze tu nejsou zadne kytky, stromy, zelen, lavicky atd. Jen spousty turistu. Cekala nas dlouha prochazka do Santa Fe ulice, kde je to nejkrasnejsi knihkupectvi El Ataneo jake si dovedete predstavit. Stare divadlo s originalnimi detaily jako napriklad balkony a kulaty strop. No nadhera. Zpatky do hotelu, osprchovat se a prevleknout. Dnes jdem na veceri s kamaradkou jedne kamaradky kterou jsme potkali na Novem Zealandu. Mame se sejit v Marriott - pekne luxusni hotel. My mame na sobe to nejlepsi obleceni a stejne sem nejak nepatrime. Vsichni na nas koukaji ale nic nerekli. Lisu a Toma jsme nasli v baru, vlaste oni nasli nas, protoze jsme vstavali z davu. Sli jsme do pizzerie a dali si 2 obrovske pizzy. Povidali jsme si 3 hodiny a pak vyrazili zpatky. Bylo teprve 23.20, coz je na Angertinske pomery brzy, ale metro bylo zavrene. Vsude bylo spoustu lidi. Jak se vsichni dostanou domu? Taxikem a tim jsme take jeli.

4.4 Vstavali jsme pozde a snidali pozde. Nasli jsme autobusovou zastavku a objevili vice nadhernych budov. Jeli jsme autobusem 152 do Boca. Domy jsou natrene ruznymi barvami a je to pastva pro oci. BA fotbalove muzstvo tady ma stadium. My jsme se na nej sli podivat, ale nekoupili si turu. Misto toho si dali obed a skoukli tango v levne restauraci. Bylo to hezky i kdyz tu bylo spoustu turistu. Nedovedu si to ani predstavit v sezone. Jeli jsme zpatky do centra (64citkou) a vystoupili jsme na Plaza de Mayo. Chteli jsme vymenit nejake penize (potrebujeme nejake drobne na autobus v Brazilii). Protoze ale bylo po 16.00 vsechny banky byly zavrene. Zasli jsme na internet a objevili ze nase karta je zavirovana a nas ctenar je rozbity. Podarilo se nam najit Kodak masinu a dat fotky na CD a zaroven koupit novi ctenar za 59pesos. Hura a je po krizy. Zasli jsme do knihkupectvi a koupili 5 knizek za 170pesos. Od tud pak uz domu. Metrem ktere bylo tak silene narvane, ze lidi stali na sobe. Sli jsme do steak restaurace - Parrailla jmenem El Desnivel a dali si mixovany gril. Bylo to vse dobre, i kdyz ja mela jen kure.

5.4 Rano probehlo jako obvykle. Ja se nechala ostrihat. Mam to kratsi nez jsem chtela, ale porad dlouhe. Steve rika ze je to hezke. Sli jsme k Institute of Ingeneering a nejak se nam podarilo dostat se k Plaza de Mayo, opet. Prosli jsme se po Floride a podarilo se nam najit legendarni Cafe Tortoni. Dali jsme si caj nekde jinde, skocili na internet a vratili se domu. Vecereli jsme opet v El Desnivel, protoze La Vieja Rotisseria byla zavrena.

6.4 Odhlasili jsme se z hotelu, zbalili a sli na snidani. Steve se rozhodl nechat se ostrihat. Rozhodli jsme se jit na obed do La Vieja Rotisseria. Od tud se to vse zkazilo. Nekdo mi stipnul kabelku s pasy, nejakymi penezmi a kartami. Restaurace se o nas moc nestarala, jen nas poslali ven. Po trochu zmatkovani a behani kolem dokola se nam podarilo zrusit karty a nechat se dovest na policejni stanici. Policajti byli hodni. Jeden umel anglicky a basnil o James Bondovi a Die Hard. Jeden by se mel tak trochu bat, protoze on beha po meste se zbrani. Ubytovali jsme se v tom samem hotelu a dokonce i pokoji. Podarilo se nam vymenit jizdenky, a dokonce dvakrat, bez poplatku. Verte nebo ne, koupili jsme ten samy fotak (drahy) ktery nam ukradli. Zitra jdeme na ambasadu nechat si udelat nove pasy.

7.4 Vstali jsme v 7 a hned vyrazili. Dojeli jsme k ambasade a museli vyplnit nejake formulare. Zaplatili jsme 900 pesos, asi 200 liber. Vratili jsme se ve 13.30 a vyzvedli pasy. Kdyz tak o tom premyslime tak jsme na tom docela dobre s porovnanim s ostatnimi. Ted budeme alespon vice opatrni. Vratili jsme se na hrbitov, ktery je blizko ambasady a Steve vyzkousel novy fotak. Zorganizovali jsme 2 adresy kam nam Stevovo mamca muze poslat novou kartu.

8.4 Podarilo se nam je premluvit a domaci nas nechali odejit z hotelu v poledne. V televizi davali fotbalovy zapas Stevova tymu a tak se dival a ja sla na snidani. Odesli jsme z hotelu okolo poledne, dojeli na nadrazi a dali batohy do uschovny. Sli jsme se projit po BA. Sli jsme do kina a dali si veceri v levnem bufetu. Autopus jel v 19.00. Meli jsme stewardku a ta nam servirovala veceri, ruzne zakusky, sampano (ktere jsme oba odmitli), studene a horke napoje a na konec i snidani. Trochu jsme si priplatili a jeli lepsim autobusem - sedacky se uplne rozlozili.

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