Nixes On Tour travel blog

There's nothing for it but to break the back of the Nullabor trip. The road skirts the Great Australian Bight so you can get great glimpses of the cliffs descending into the sea, but apart from that and the odd sinkhole, there's a lot of the same. It's great to see, but there's a lot of sameness and it's hard to keep yourself focused on the task at hand. Fuel and loo stops (hygiene is not a top priority for Nullabor roadhouse proprietors)become a bit of a highlight.

The toughest bit is a stretch of the road that is 146km long without a single bend .. not even a waver. It's just a matter of pointing the car in the right direction and trying not to go to sleep. Pointing the car in the right direction is a bit tough for me with my sense of direction ... after stopping for lunch I jump into the drivers' seat and promptly turn back to head the way we came - much to Stu's amusement and general incredulity. My argument is it all looks the same and it's an honest mistake but I guess the fact that it is just one road proves my sense of direction is truly lousy.

As we get further into WA, we need to decide whether to turn left and head down to the coast via what looks on the map (we're all GPS'ed up by this stage) like a decent 4wd track from the Balladonia roadhouse, or continue another 100 odd km to Norseman and head into the outback to Kalgoorlie.

Stop at the Balladonia roadhouse which is infamous for its proximity to Skylab's landing place and is littered with suitable memorabilia to check that the road is open and check out their charming souvenirs - mainly stubby coolers with boobs on them. The bloke at the roadhouse reckons we go south first, then head to Kalgoorlie later, and recommends the beaches at Duke of Orleans on the coast as being the best in Oz. On such recommendation, we take the dirt road, which is in pretty good nick apart from the odd monster pot hole and gate covered in bras and undies of travellers past. We add to the collection on our way through (when in Rome), and reach the coast at dusk.

The weather is starting to look more miserable when we hit the coast, so we bunker down in a little tucked away parking area right by the beach and settle in to the tent for a DVD and a big sleep. Sightseeing can wait till tomorrow.

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