'half the world': a sojourn from istanbul to isfahan travel blog

mevlid-i halil camii

rizvaniye vakfi camii & medresesi

sacred carp

balikkli gol

urfa at night


hasan padisa camii

golbasi canal


kofte shop



han notes

Movie Clips - Playback Requirements - Problems?

(MP4 - 1.24 MB)

rainy market day

dear nader,

so being back on this side of the border is interesting, & my current locale is quite different from anywhere else i've visited in turkey. for 1 thing urfa is predominantly kurdish, & i can't decipher what is said to me in turkish unless repeated 3 or 4 times. also a surprise to me, no 1 is ever trying to scam me or hustle me into a sale. everyone seems friendly & easy going. if i don't want a pair of gxd awful slacks, no problem. if i don't want to look at some silverware, that's alright. essentially, i'm free to meander as i pls. without harassment.

however, i do feel that i should keep my distance from police buses & tanks. as you may have heard, the turkish 'authorities' have been cracking down on kurdish 'terrorists'. the army recently used some nasty tactics to eliminate 14 pkk members, & in so doing, have possibly put an end to the peace this region has 'enjoyed' for the past few years. despite the heavy presence of police here in urfa, actually i haven't noticed them since the night of my arrival, there have been no problems in this town. far from it.

every night there are wedding celebrations going on, community bakesales by the cave abraham, the abraham, was born in, football matches & celebration of victories galore! now that i think of it, all of these might just be too kurdish. i better not get stuck in the middle of something like that.

en-tous-cas, i'll supposedly have my iranian visa in about 4 days now -i'm not sure i believe it any more- & until then, i have plenty of bazaars to see around here & plenty of caffeine to keep my wits about me as i challenge members of The Hospitable Kızgın family at backgammon.

peace. andrew

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