World China Beijing Badaling

FRANCIS GOES ROUND THE WORLD - in search of a more inspired title for this site

Forbidden Palace 10 Mar 2006

Were going to the Forbidden Palace today or Gugong as the Chinese would say. The Palace lies within the massive complex of the Forbidden City who's entrance faces the North side of Tiannamen Square. The construction of the Forbidden City started in 1406 and took 14 years and an estimated 200,000 men. It was the former imperial palace which was home to 24 Emperors between 1420 and 1911. These Emperors were regarded as personifying the "Son of Heaven" or the supreme ruler under heaven. Thus the palace was off limits to commoners who were not allowed to even approach it and hence its called the "Forbidden City". Still we'll have a go.

Its a massive place, running around 1km in length 750 metres wide. Its well defended too being surrounded by a moat almost 4km long and 50 metres wide. At teh front are massive watchtowers which jut forward so archers could fire their nbows at intruders approaching the entrance.

The archers arent there now but who needs them when theyve got tourist touts that do pretty much the same job. Its quite a task getting here we had to cross teh vast Red Square, negotiate our way past English speaking art students, minority tribal chinese trying to sell rubbish and hotel guides trying to lure us to their 'palaces'. Who needs big walls and a moat.

Of all the touts its the minority tribal members that get the hardest time. If any are seen carrying bags they are stopped by the guards and frisked. One lady was found with a bag full of souvenirs ready to sell. Before you could say 'whats up me old china' an unmarked van had pulled up and three mean looking undercover cops (who looked more like triads) had surrounded her and bundled her into the back of the van. I wonder if well ever see her again.

Outside the main gate to the Forbidden City, stands Tiananmen Gate which is 'decorated' with a huge portrait of Mao Zedong in the center and two placards to the left and right which read:ads 'Long Live the People's Republic of China'and 'Long live the Great Unity of the World's Peoples'.

Having negotiated Mao we make our way through the Meridian Gate one of five huge gates to the Palace. There's massive red walls on either side over 13 metres high with rostrums on each corner. These rostrums housed a drum and bell tower which would be sounded when the Emperor was in siu or when a succesful General returned from a campaign to hand over his booty to teh Emperor. Walking under the tunnel of the gate you can thelp noticing the imposing red doors studded with round gold bolts. Each door has 9 bolts across and 9 down - a total of 91 because 9 is the largest odd (yang) number smaller than 10, it is regarded as auspicious.

At the entrance to all gates are a pair of bronze lions. The female's paw rests on a baby cub symbolizing the fertility of the royal family whilst teh male has a ball under its paw, representing the imperial power. Only officials were allowed bronze lions. First rank officials have lions with 13 bumps on their heads. This decreases with the official's rank, eight being the least number of bumps on the head. Officials of rank seven and below were not allowed lions outside their gates.

Once inside we come to a huge square with a moat running through teh middle. This was the Golden Stream bridged by five marble arches. Only the Emperor could use the middle arch as shown by dragon motifs along its structure. To the Chinese, dragons were supernatural creatures and strongly associated with water. They are believed to be the rulers of waterfalls, rivers and seas. The dragon also has Imperial significance because the first legendary Emperor Huang Di was said to have been immortalized into a dragon that resembled his emblem, and ascended to Heaven. Since the Chinese consider Huang Di as their ancestor, they sometimes refer to themselves as "the descendants of the dragon". It was a capital offense for commoners to wear clothes with a dragon symbol.

We make our way upto the marble Terrace of the Hall of Supreme Harmony. This is the centre piece of the Palace - the highest point where the Emperor would greet visiting dignitaries. On the terrace are large bronze vats which were not only decorative but also used for extinguishing fires. Most of the palace was built from wood and prone to fire especially in the boiling hot summers.

Also on the terrace are 18 bronze incense burners representing each of the 18 provinces of Imperial China. Sandalwood and Tibetan incense were burned in them on special occasions

Unfortunately, like so many Chinese historical sites, the this Hall is undergoing renovation so we cant get in. However, from teh terrace you can see across the Forbidden city and the roofs look like a sea of yeallow, the royal colour whilst the walls and doors are red to symbolize happiness and auspiciousness. Some roofs have animal ornaments decorating the corners. The more animals the more important the building.

Walking to the back of the Palce we come across the beautiful Imperial Garden with huge rockeries and mini pagodas. Theres a labyrinth of old trees many of which need to be supported wit hiron rods and the footpaths are paved with mosaic patterns. During the Mid-Autumn Festival (the 15th day of the eighth lunar month) the emperor and empress would come here to view the full moon. Its also the place where members of the imperial household came to relax. However, in 1803 there was an assassination attempt on Emperor Jiaqing when an armed stranger chased him. He was rescued by his ministers. Not very relaxing.

There are thousands of rooms to the Palacce - 9,999 in fact. Fortunately, many are being renovated or off limits otherwise we would have been here all day no we have been here all day make that all week. As it is the rooms that ar eopen house many historc treasure. Uniforms made out of pure gold which belonged to the ancient chinese emperors as well the uniforms of warriors and the roya Guard. There are also many fine ceramics. Its surprising to hear then that the majority of the treasures were moved to the Taipei National Palace Museum in Taiwan to prevent looting by the Japanese during the occupation in 1930s as well as destruction by the People during the Cultural Revolution.

Although the home to the Emperors until Pu Yir in 1911, the British mansged to penetrate the walls and ccupy the city in 1860, during the Second Anglo-Chinese Opium War. They were the only foreign power to do so. The Forbidden City ceased being the political center of China in 1912 with the abdication of Pu Yi, the last Emperor of China.