Ruth on the road travel blog

Spent all day on the bus to get here from Rio Legartos, when I arrived I went to a random hotel picked out of the Lonely Planet and was booked straight in without worrying about what state it was in. Mistake.

The place was undergoing renovations, which is the politest way I can put it. Half demolished is more like it. The central courtyard was mud instead of tiles and there were piles of rubble everywhere. Unfortunately, the improvement works hadn´t reached as far as my room, which wins the award "Hotel room most like a jail cell" hands down. Cockroaches, peeling paint, contrete based bed with sheet so small and transparent I thought at first they hadn´t made the bed up, and in the window, bars and shutters instead on glass and curtains. At least it had a pretty tiles floor and even if I was too knackered to move somewhere else I still had my sense of humour.

I had to call home and Mexican phone rates can be extortionate, so I spent about an hour trawling the streets for somewhere cheap- without luck. So I got fleeced by another cybercafe but along the way I did at least find a great icecream bar and the locals were having something of a fiesta near the Zocalo, with fireworks and hundreds of them dressed in white and doing their formal formation dances, so I stuck around for a while to watch, then had leisurely dinner outside a restaurant in the zocalo, which of course has a large and handsome Spanish-built cathedral. Where in this country doesn´t?

The next morning I went straight back to the bus station to find out about the options- I had to get to Palenque that day to be back in time to meet Jerry, and it was lucky I went early cos it turned out that the only daytime service was at 11am. I was a bit narked cos Campeche´s claim to fame is its ancient battlements, built to keep marauding pirates and other bad sorts out, and there was a walking tour I wanted to do. But then when I looked again at the guide book I realised I had actually seen almost all of it on my phone-hunting tour and trips to and from the bus station. So that was it and I hit the road again barely 18 hours after arriveing. So sayanora Campeche, short and sweet(ish)!

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