2008 Keys 2 Canada travel blog

7:00 AM - the ferry is in

now it's hurry up and wait

a narrower bow than the Caribou

in line to board

follow the leader

a tight squeeze

you don't want to turn too sharply when you leave

lots of room on this side - until they fill it up

MV Apollo

sunrise is always something here

portside

Madolyn explores the deck

Madolyn and Apollo

the St. Barbe docks

the bow mechanism

Casting off the bow

casting off amidships

casting off the stern

leaving St. Barbe

channel to the Strait of Belle Isle

stack

Newfoundland coastal village

this is a smooth crossing of only a few miles

stern view

a working ship that doesn't get much down time for painting

we say 'goodbye' to Newfoundland

as Quebec comes into view

the dock at Blanc Sablon, Quebec on the left and Labrador on...

docked in Quebec

an introduction to Quebec

welcome to Quebec - or I should say, "Bienvenue"

three guesses what this means

the road west

they have some pretty good grades here

on both sides of the hill

but the views are incredible

we are heading straight west with the Strait of Belle Isle on...

rock formations along the road

this is not the way I pictured Quebec

much more open

Saint Paul's River

someone put on quite a show here!

imagine all these rockets

aimed out over this river valley

that fort in the distance was our destination, but they are working...

there are a lot of these rock cairns and Inukchuks here

our new friend, Scotty

bridges are narrow

looking south toward the Strait of Belle Isle and Newfoundland

yes - that sign says the grade is 17% and they aren't...

this definitely calls for low gear

we found this nice parking place where we could get out and...

this falls is right next to the highway

and it's a beauty

the water has the same stain here we've seen everywhere in Canada...

the sound is deafening

these rock formations were once horizontal

a little blurred but you get the idea

Movie Clips - Playback Requirements - Problems?

(MP4 - 4.48 MB)

Entering Ferry

(MP4 - 3.35 MB)

Quebec Ride

(MP4 - 3.83 MB)

Water Fall

(MP4 - 3.13 MB)

Water Fall


The crossing to Labrador! - Saturday, August 16

We woke early, if not bright, and began preparing to leave. The ferry to Labrador leaves at 8:00 and you have to be checked in and in line no later than 7:15. I walked over to the ferry office and got our ticket, then we disconnected and drove a quarter mile to the loading dock. We will be gaining a half hour on this trip, as Labrador and Quebec are on Atlantic time. The crossing is 19 kilometers, or about 12 miles.

The ferry is the MV (Marine Vessel) Apollo. It’s a good looking ship from a distance, but up close you can see signs of rust and age. But it’s a working boat that makes the crossing two or three times a day during the season. It doesn’t have time for details, and you’re only on it for an hour and a half anyway. They do well to keep it clean and serviceable and it does have a cafeteria and a gift shop which probably help to keep the cost down. The fee to cross with our RV was only $31.25.

We cast off promptly at 8:00 and the crossing was smooth as silk. The body of water is the Strait of Belle Isle which lies between the two halves of the Newfoundland Labrador Province. It is the north entry to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and during the second world war Nazi U-boats were a constant danger. Today we saw only whales, one of which breached twice and I missed it both times.

The passengers were a mixture of locals and tourists and the boat was less than half full. One group was a bus tour that had people from all over the U.S. and Canada, and there were also a dozen motorcycles with their colorful riders dressed in a variety of canvas and leather outfits. We had some interesting conversations with both groups, and found that one of the bikers has a sister who lives in Sebastopol. Nice people, who had come up from Maine and Massachusetts despite the weather.

Before we knew it the ferry was coming into port and it was time to return to the vehicle deck. Although the ferry is called the Labrador ferry, it docks in Quebec a few miles from the Labrador border. Most of the traffic turns right and heads for Labrador, but we decided to turn left and see a little of Quebec. I handed Madolyn our dollar and a half dictionary so she could translate the signs and we headed out a 50 mile road that goes to the town of Saint Paul’s River and dead-ends at an old fort a few miles beyond it.

After passing through a couple of small towns we found ourselves in wide open country. The road parallels the coast and there are stunning views of the bluffs and water all the way. While we could see some wooded hills in the distance farther inland, there were few if any trees of any height near the road, making for vistas where we could see a great distance. The country is beautiful and unspoiled, rocky and rugged with rivers and waterfalls along the way as well.

When they built this road they must have had economy in mind because it goes straight up and over any hills, without the benefit of any switchbacks. This makes for some pretty steep grades, some of up to 17%. We finally came to a high overlook and pulled off to enjoy the view. Below us was the Saint Paul’s River and across it the town of St. Paul’s River. In the far distance we could see the old fort at the end of the road.

A corner of the turnout was littered with the remains of an impressive array of fireworks. These were not your little sparklers and bottle rockets. They were serious fireworks set in the gravel at the edge of the overlook and pointed out over the hillside facing town. Someone put on a pretty good show here!

While we were standing there a pickup truck pulled in and stopped, and an old man got out. He immediately started talking to us, and his accent was old time down east English and not French as we expected to hear in Quebec. He was a little hard to understand at first, but we finally learned that he had come berry picking, and that he sells the berries and is very particular about getting only the best fruit. It turned out he was after bakeapples. He told us he’d been to California and all over Europe, but he lives in St. Paul’s River and everyone in town says he’s the smartest man in town. His name was Scotty and he is about 85. He blushed a little when Madolyn took his picture and did a kind of an “Aw shucks” shuffle, then he said ‘Goodbye’ to us and was off with his little bucket looking for bakeapples.

We turned around at St. Paul’s River because the road to the fort is under construction and not a good one at the present. On our way back we stopped at a large and powerful waterfall, then retraced our route to the ferry and beyond to the Quebec Labrador border. Across the border we stopped at an information center and talked to a nice local girl. Then we got back on the road and started north.



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