Central America - SouthoftheBorder travel blog















Ferry arrived and we got off shortly after 6:30am. It took another hour and a half to get thru a bag check and for the bus to load up before heading into La Paz. After a long day in La Paz we finally got out of town and arr at Canada del Diablo and Barbara Perkins just before closing at 5! Pedro helped us get the car uncovered and off blocks. Bon got into Blue and the wonderful girl (Blue-the car!) fired right up and purred like a contented cat! We got to our dunes campsite just in time to set up our tent and get settled before dark. A damp night, no wind. Mari slept out on the sand under the car cover. 3/17 Morning and I set up camp...later we visited friend Cathy's land where she is building a casita but she was not there. Later we went to see Moonstone then to town and made plans to meet Dan. Had fish tacos and had chai at Cafe Brown. 3/18 & 19 We spent time checking out all the changes, meeting with Dan and Ed, and talked with Patrick Coffman about redoing the fencing incl. a new one down the middle to separate BKs and ours. We went down and talked with Cesar who is architect from La Paz building the house just N. of us for a fellow from NYC. The protestors are heating up again since they are convinced that the homes (3) already built on dune property are fluks done without permits (totally wrong and in fact, they are only concerned about their views) which have been in order for the past 4 years! It is sad to see the disharmony caused by these greedy trouble makers who can't accept that they were either lied to about building on the dunes or chose to ignore the reality of it! The strict regulations imposed on building on dunes are a great benefit now and it turns out many if not most of those who are complaining are not in compliance with building codes on their own properties! The obvious truth, that they only care about their personal property views and don't give a rats ass about the environment or enforcing the laws prohibiting vehicles on the beaches is coming out now. The environmental impact studies done on these dunes shows that, if anything, the type of construction allowed will enhance the stability of the dunes and in fact, may even stop the driving of vehicles once more houses are in place and the owners living on the dunes begin to act! 3/20-22 Walked into town after washing Blue in the huerta. Sunday was pretty much dead in town. Yesterday (Monday) was a holiday so we ended up staying and Bon visited w/ Moonstone, Mari and I played Crib. Finally, we picked up Bon and Moonstone and we all went into town to Miguel's for dinner. Later on the way back to beach we stopped up at where we knew Cathy and husband, Jeff and family are staying...spent an hour visiting with them. They are building on their property, the casita is going up quite quickly but won't be done before they leave next Sat. Today (Tuesday) we went to La Paz after connecting with Patrick about the fence. Got the fidos paid, the chips in the windshield filled, but no good at hospital getting X-rays. They require an appt w/ doctor to recommend an orthopod who then recommends the X-rays!!! Really a ridiculous process which also takes more than two trips into LP! In the eve we spent a wonderful dinner time catching up with Moonstone over a ravioli dinner at her place. Christina was there as well so we had a jolly time! Got back to camp by midnight. 3/23 Today we go to Cabo and pick Todd up at the airport at 3:30pm. His plane was late and we returned in the dark to a series of asonist fis! On way down the road to the beach we saw two little fires (we had no water) and then once at our property Todd noticed an orange sky and a flaming house to the N. of us! We drove over and sure enuf, the 'Tiki' house was completely engulfed in flames. After talking with several other people we discovered there had been a string of arson

ist fires over the past several weeks!


We talked with Mike who jogs past our place every morning and he informed us that the police had caught 6 kids last night for starting the fires! We'll see what happens next. Met with Cathy and Ricardo about the gate...$1800! Still no word about

re-fencing the dunes property from Patrick!


A day that will live in infamy! My infamy at least! Due to a senior moment I had my entire pack (yes, the big one that I have been living out of for over a year) stolen! What I miss most are my journals (I kept them all thinking we would be someplace where I could fill in those days I have left out), both my iPods with data relating to the journey - people we met along the way, the calender of when we were where, my entire expense report, contacts, etc, etc., and most difficult to lose was my hard drive with over 10,000 pics and videos. Today is the 30th as I write this, it has taken me this long to come to grips with the loss and accept what has happened. I have not slept well thinking of the entscenarioerio over and over, what I could have, should have done and then realizing that nothing will bring any of it back! After travelling a year and focusing on recording everything (my memory is really poor for details) I feel like I've lost a part of me. It is really a sick stomach feeling. But then I am sure those of you who read this and have had a similar loss know what I'm talking about. Nevertheless, knowing that it all could have been prevented by using my brain just a tad does not change the result one iota! So now I fall back on the very simple 'MoveOn' concept. I am beginning to come to grips and realize that there is more to living than what I was doing with those 'things', at least I did not leave my passport or any money or whatever...altho there was a copy of our last years' tax return in the pack but I'm hoping it was looked upon just as 'papers' and thrown out with the rest of my collection of paper memorabilia. I was a bit addicted to the iPod, one had over 1200 songs on it which was hard to give up. Likewise, I fixated too much on collecting all the photos on the external hard drive and trying to upload those was a long and costly task now no longer sapping my energies. So there are good things that come from everything as always. Attitude adjustment! In a year none of this will seem important and in a hundred years none of it will BE important, ha! 3/26-30 We got a bid from Patrick to restring the barbed wire around the dunes property but not only was it much too expensive (over $1500 US), but he included replacing most of the posts as well which we did not want done. So we concluded that it was better that we do it ourselves and during these 5 days we have been putting up barbed wire and replacing the 8 or so posts that had completely rotted off. Now the fencing is done and the work has helped me get thru the days.

We were invited to Moonstones one eve and had a really nice time, she had invited her neighbor, Christina, over as well and the 5 of us chatted into the night.

Christina also had us over for dinner at her place and we chatted over veggie pasta dinner as well.

After Todd arrived we toured around to show and see all the changes (MANY), and Dan invited us to his place near Pedritos beach where he has just finished paving his property to develop a gated community. Dan being the ultimate pizza chef (he has made an outdoor adobe oven just for this purpose), served up a variety of tasty pizzas! We talked a long time with Dan and wife, Debbie, as well as their friend Efien (sp?) who is from a 7 generation family in T.S. and owns the restaurant El ( ) right on the main drag in T.S. His mom lives right behind the restaurant and his sister owns a shoe store right across from Dans office (Efrien sold the property to Dan). We spent an afternoon a Los Pedritos as well, seeing all the surfer folks and tourists coming/going. Big changes from 12 years ago!



Most amazing things happen when least expected...just after I got off the internet from writing my report of pack stolen Todd opened his email (a rarity anytime) and lo and behold there was an email sent w/in minutes of his checking from a local gringo. She runs a horseback riding school and while out and about with some students she happened to see it and all the contents spread around. At first she commented, 'Damn, why do people just dump their trash in the arrollo!' But after riding a bit further she thought, 'This is a long way to haul trash' so she rode back and noticed that it was my pack...'This stuff is someone's belongings!' So she got off her horse and gathered everything up in bags and the pack and hauled it home. That was just this morning while I was writing my 'story'! Amazing! I still haven't really digested it all, haven't even looked at what's there...definately the iPods and exterior hard drive are NOT there, but the journals ARE!!! YES! So, more later. It is certainly a strange coincidence, since she only wrote Todd who just happened to be down here. He just happened to look at his email. We are leaving early tomorrow morning, so the last chance to find out! Well, amazing!

Final comment on Todos Santos.... Yes, lots of change. But also some very good stuff still here. I think overall, we still find the place has good vibes! Of course, there are lots of things which are different and more people, but I am optimistic about the future of the place and the ability of people to work things out, together.


We break camp today and take Todd to the airport (10:30am) and then leave ourselves for The North!

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