Two Islands : from camping out to an island paradise!

Natalya - April 23rd, 2005 - Ko Chang, Thailand

We've had an opportunity to experience 2 islands - Ko Chang and Ko Samet. Although both islands are in relatively close proximity to each other they were entirely different. Ko Samet is relatively flat and underdeveloped with a dirt road running across the island. There are many guesthouses and one or two larger hotels. The sand on the beach is very soft and the beach itself is quite large. Ko Chang is a much larger island with many large hills covered with tropical rainforest. The sand on the beach is a bit darker and some beaches are rocky. Ko Chang is quite developed with a newly paved road almost circling the island.

After a long and tiring journey to get to Ko Chang that took almost 6 hours in sweltering heat we checked into a beautiful resort located right on the beach. Our room has a luxurious king size bed with white cotton linens. Dark hardwood floors keep the room cool and our windows offer a view of the beach through palm and banana trees. We have a nice private veranda that we enjoy in the morning while reading the paper and in the early evening while listening to many local birds.

Yesterday we went on an elephant ride and it was probably the most amazing thing I have experienced so far. We were picked up by a truck taxi and 20 minutes later we were at the elephant camp. Within 30 seconds of arriving, well before I could get my bearings I found myself going up the stairs to a platform and then sitting on top of a large elephant. The elephant's name was Moon and according our guide she is 30 years old (which is young in elephant years - they are known to live until 80). Moon took us through the jungle. It was very peaceful as we passed by rubber trees, butterflies and fruit trees. During most of our ride we sat in the seat secured on top of the elephant and our guide sat on the elephant's head. Half way through our ride the guide asked me if I wanted to sit right on the elephant and before I knew it I was sitting on the elephant's head. Her skin felt very rough, but her ears very soft. It was really an amazing feeling.

Natalya

Dave - April 23rd, 2005 - Ko Chang, Thailand

Our first experience at a Thai beach was not quite what we hoped. We made our way from Bangkok to Ko Samet National Marine Park by government bus. The weather as we arrived alternated between sweltering heat and humidity, and "mango showers", the local term for when the skies open up and everything around you becomes a waterfall for 20-30 minutes.

The island was quite flat, the water not all that clear and stray dogs were everywhere. Accommodation on the island ranged from very basic to very average and there was certainly nothing that could compare to places we have visited in Cuba, the South Pacific and the Caribbean. The resort we stayed at, Jep's (resort is probably too generous of a term, beach huts is more accurate), actually had a lot of character though. The rooms were all in small wooden huts with bathrooms, and the restaurant was on a white sand beach, with a star filled sky and great music and food. Unfortunately even the atmosphere here was taken away from by the ever present mangy stray dogs all over the beach that would come beg for food, or nearly overturn tables as they fought and chased each other. The Hut was also not all that clean (with blood stains showing in one place in the room), but we decided no worse than camping in a tent, mind you also no better. We decided one night on Ko Samet was probably enough and made our way to Ko Chang.

The journey to Ko Chang was the type of trip you can never quite prepare yourself for, but inevitably will end up on at some point. The day began with both of us struggling under the weight of our backpacks in 35C+ weather. We were packed on as the last passengers onto an overflowing boat leaving the island and struggled to find a small patch of shade for the 40 minute boat ride. When we arrived on the main land we found that all of the minibuses running directly to Ko Chang were full for the day and we would have to organize other transportation. As with any place in Thailand there were many people around willing to help us find other transportation as long as they got a commission for helping. Rather than use one of these tourist touts we made our way to the main road and negotiated with some of the cabbies ourselves with our phrasebook in hand and eventually found someone willing to do the 3.5 hour drive for about $30. Unfortunately no air conditioning in this taxi, but there was a cool rain for most of the drive so it wasn't too bad.

As we got within a kilometre of the ferry for Ko Chang our cab started making all kinds of strange noises and just barely managed to roll up to the pier. From here things didn't get much better. We were packed on to another boat that was supposed to leave at 3pm, and that was already full as we arrived. By 3:30 we still had not left, it was now about 37C on the boat, and they continued to pack more and more people on, and as an added bonus a dead rat floated by in the water. By the time we finally left there were so many people on board the boat actually ran aground out in the middle of the ocean, and it took quite awhile before we could slowly get back under way. Upon arriving on the island we were again packed in about 30 people this time, all in the back of a standard pick up truck for the ride up and down mountainous roads with hairpin turns for the 30 minute drive to the town. As we turned one of the corners down a mountain we saw a large water truck that had just overturned. Everyone in the back of the truck looked at each other nervously and hung on just a bit tighter.

After a journey like this we were very happy to finally arrive at the beautiful brand new Ko Chang Kacha Resort and Spa., where we are currently staying. This island is much more what we had in mind when coming to Thailand. Like Ko Samet it is also near a National Marine Park, and is a stunningly beautiful island. The beaches are a fine white sand, and inland are mountains covered in some of Thailand's best preserved rain forest. The island is quickly being developed into an international resort by the Thai government, and brand new hotels and restaurants are going up everywhere. At the same time the atmosphere here is still very relaxed, and it still feels like and undiscovered paradise.

There is also a lot to do here. There are a few nice beach front bars, some of the best restaurants we have found anywhere in Thailand, inland elephant treks, and snorkelling and scuba diving. Ko Chang also has plenty of banks, internet cafes and shops.

We are staying in a beautiful brand new beach front bungalow that with breakfast costs us about $50 a day. We love it here and have extended our stay to about 5 days. So far we have toured the island, done some off shore snorkelling, gone on an elephant trek through a rubber tree plantation, and just relaxed and enjoyed our time here on the island.

Tonight is the island full moon party, then tomorrow we are going on a diving/snorkelling trip to some of the surrounding islands, and then Monday we will be heading overland to Cambodia. We will have a few days in Siem Riep and the Angkor Wat temple complex ( A United Nations World Heritage Site and one of the most impressive historical sites in Asia), and then a few days in the capital Phnom Phen before we fly to Hanoi, Vietnam.

We're looking forward to an adventurous trip to Cambodia.

Dave

Apr 23, 2005

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