After passing through the last two big towns, Port Augusta and Ceduna, we enter the Nullarbor Plains, a stretch of earth that, millions of years ago, was part of the ocean floor. There isn't much to see out here as we have entered the "treeless plain". Nonetheless, it is a national park, goes on for hundreds of kilometers and has similar historical significance as a combination of the Lewis and Clark trail/Route 66 in the US, Ruta 40 in Argentina or Carretara Austral in Chile.
For the first time, we are on Aboriginal land, but with there being no towns in this area, it's hard to tell much has changed with the people of the land. And our biggest dissapointment thus far, the nature reserve "Head of Bight" is closed. Seems in the last 24 hours there has been a bush fire and so the potential viewing of migrating whales is not possible.
So we trundle into the Nullarbor roadhouse. A dry, dusty, windblown patch of earth that has been cleared to accomodate a few travellers making their way east or west. A remoteness that gives you a sense of how survival crossing this plain was a rugged test of endurance not too many years ago.
But best of all, the lad in the shop says not to fear about the "Head of Bight" being closed, as there's a few picnic/viewing spots further up the road that are just as good.
So with peaceful minds and full stomachs, we head off to bed, as tomorrow is the big one!