|Tenerhir is a smallish town basically in the middle of nowhere. [I am very proud, this was the first time that we bargained the hotel price under what the guide book published, although we were nowhere as hard core as the 3 Italian girls with whom we shared a cab next day up to the gorge] There is a big gorge nearby called the Todra Gorge which is the city's main tourist draw. We decided to spend two days in the town so I could get over a cold I had caught (no doubt on the SARS plane). I was feeling a little better the next day and our room was not that nice so I decided instead of resting to go to the gorge with Charlie and then walk back through the palm tree groves. The gorge itself was pretty, although not too exciting if you've seen any gorges in Colorado, etc., but the walk back through the palm tree forests was beautiful. For the first time in a long time we barely saw any people and it was quiet and clean and green. In addition to the palm trees there were small farms, actually more like gardens, but no one seemed to be tending to them, at least not that day. It took about 4 hours to get back to our hotel and I was exhausted, although glad I went. [There were many old abandoned kashbas along the valley, too-Charlie] We went for some dinner in town and witnessed the phenomenon that pervaded many Moroccan cities, especially in rural areas - there were no women. The street was full of hundreds of guys and besides me, maybe 2 or 3 other women. Also, if I haven't mentioned it yet, another phenomenon is that the men sit at sidewalk cafes all day and all evening. They're usually nursing the same cup or tea or coffee for hours and just watching the world go by. There's almost never any women at these cafes, although they're not really missing anything, it's probably better than the cooking and other domestic tasks they're probably up to. While in the gorge we saw groups of women washing clothes in the river and also loading a donkey with tons of corn husks that they indicated was for the cows to eat. After dinner, we unfortunately had a sleepless night because we had a window facing a very noisy street and there was some kind of repetitive machinery type noise every few seconds that we were never able to identify.