Central America - SouthoftheBorder travel blog

To Trujillo...forgot about Mennonite use of termites in Belize-here they live in nests in trees & Mennonites collect these, very excellent feed for chickens & totally organic!

We lv 9:30 (actually, bus departed slooowly from sta at 8:45)-very sunny, clear and getting hot day! Huge ranches along the way-palm oil palms, bananas, & cattle (Dole and Chiquita banana trucks). This bus only goes to Tocoa (3 hrs) where we chg to next bus to El Trujillo arr at 3pm where taxis try to get us to pay 150l (should be 80l) to go to Casa Kiwi...ended up after walking away, paying 120l, still way too much!

Casa Kiwi nice location, owner, Chaz has been here building the place for 8 yrs. Joy, her friend & helper (both in their late 40s +) and two Kiwi guests as well Canadians and a MAINEiac - 6 in all - are much friendlier. I taught them^"Up" and we had a fine time in the eve. Turns out Lena & Chris from Victoria, BC (late 20s) have many of same thoughts re: travel & changes (for the worse we think) due to impact of tourism! Few independent travelers for extended time, mostly short timers w/ lots of $$$$, esp in groups. Drive prices up, less contact w/ locals therefore, locals just look at them as cash cows not people or travelers to be welcomed. These groups and rich young people bring a different "Ugly American" attitude w/ them that transforms locals into just "service personnel"...guides, waiters, clerks, or worse. Plus street vendors no longer able to sell anything since the shops owned/run by middle class and sometimes even foreigners control the type of "stores" these short time travelers are used to. No haggling no hassle, just buy and bag and go...a Walmart mentality. Something has died in the exchg, there is no real "life" going on, just commerce. Like comparing Catholic church w/ Mayan religous rituals in Chamula - one just perfunctory, the other w/ heart and soul entering the picture. Both equally mythic based but somehow the Mayan practices really have some "meaning" it seems to me.


Since we did nothing but wash some clothes and read and just hang yesterday, today we decided to go into Trujillo. Being Sunday few or no buses run in and out this way (Casa Kiwi is 8 km out). We hitched for the first time...an AC truckride most of the way from a local-Bon guessed he might have something to do w/ the shipping (just down the road a major port). Walking about town, really laid back place w/ 5-6 churches (Assy of God, 7th Day Adventist, Evangelical, Catholic, etc) so for Sunday it seemed quiet. Went and visited Wm Walkers grave...he was the American fellow who in 1850-60 tried to conquer Central America with a band of cronies. Ended up here in front of a firing squad in 1860!

Wm Walker History

We hoped there'd be a bus to Puerto Castillo (big one I mentioned) which would have passed by Casa Kiwi - NOT! So we took one going to Tocoa and got out at a crossroad 5 km from Casa Kiwi...no luck hitching back but not raining either!

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