|We started our tour with a bus ride on a local Delhi bus to Old Delhi, the walled city of Shahjahanabad created by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, where we visited Delhi's oldest mosque, the Jama Masjid. Next door to the mosque is Delhi's Red Fort which we did not visit as it is in very poor condition and renovations are under way and therefore not all areas accessible. We then made our way to Sheesh Ganj Gurudwara, a Sikh Temple. We had to remove our shoes and socks and wear a head scarf in order to enter the Temple where we listened to an elder chant and watched the people who came to pray to the Sikh gods. We were then given a tour of the communal kitchen next door to the Temple where the faithful donate their time helping to cook okra and other vegetables and bake chapati (flatbread) and make sweet desserts for the poor and well-to-do alike, all of whom can come and eat a communal meal. After our tour we were given some "hawla", a paste made from browned flour, sugar and clarified butter, which we then took back into the Temple where it was blessed and then we ate it using a banana leaf....it was interesting to take part in their rituals. After our visit to the Sikh Temple we jumped on another bus and made our way to the Spice Market, where we joined with the throngs of people moving about from shop to shop, stepping over and around rat traps as we went. Always the salesmen, a vendor offered to sell Barb a rat for 5 rupees......she declined of course. We then hired cycle rickshaws to take us to the Metro station......our tour leader Raj and Adrian, one of our tour group from Melbourne, Australia went on one rickshaw and Barb and I on another. Their driver was strong and took off while ours was a skinny little guy who had a tough time getting started and we soon got separated by other rickshaws, vehicles, donkey carts, cattle and auto rickshaws, but we managed to keep Adrian's ballcap in our sights and we arrived at the Metro safe and sound. We took the Metro to Connaught Place, a major shopping area where Adrian, Barb and I stopped to have Iced Eskimos (cappuccinos) at a coffee house and boy, were they ever good on a hot day........so we decided to stay and have another before heading back to our hotel. In the evening, we met Craig from New Zealand, who has been living and working in London for the past two years. The four of us had a traditional Indian dinner at Crossroads Restaurant, around the corner from our hotel, which was very delicious.