I've found that it's best to get on the road by 7:00 and cover some distance when it's cooler and there are fewer vehicles whizzing by. Pamela was so sweet to oblige my early schedule and even made delicious lemon granita. From the heights of Modica, it was an easy drop and rise to Ragusa, the last baroque gem of the triangle. The Duomo and blue domed church were especially impressive (see photo). From Ragusa, I headed back to the coast along an empty and plunging rural road, which took me by an elegant castle and estates with stone mansions to the seaside village of Scoglitti. I then followed the main coastal road through the gritty town of Gela and on to Della due Rocche, and a Euro-camping site, where I pitched my tent for the first time. With lots of motor homes, with their TV and Internet connections, a cafe/bar and restaurant, and an outdoor Karaoke stage, this was not quite my notion of camping, though I must say the pizza was delicious after a long ride. The blasting Karaoke party went on until 12:00 apparently, but I was so exhausted it was--well not exactly--music to my ears.