John & Brenda's Excellent Tour travel blog

Mahone Bay

Fish pond at Birchill B&B

July 8

It had rained through the night and we had a heavy fog in the bay when we looked out the window. Anne-Marie was in considerable pain, likely brought on by the walks through the hilly streets of Lunenburg. Their neighbours in the motel had been very noisy in the night making for a restless sleep.

After we packed up for our drive toward Cape Breton along the Eastern Shore (Marine Drive), we bid fond farewell to our hosts, Alex and Heidi. The return drive along the coast to Halifax would not be in the cards due to the fog so we used highway 103 until we passed Halifax heading north. After working our way east we ended up on highway 7, which is the scenic route along the Atlantic and the myriad inlets, coves and harbours of the Eastern Shore.

It remained overcast and a cool 13°C with brisk wind as we continued our scenic drive through a series of small towns. This area of Nova Scotia seems more isolated than other parts and the pavement is in pretty bad shape. My personal target had been to stay at Sheet Harbour as I had remembered it being such a pretty town on our drive through with Katie on our last trip up here. While it is still pretty with its river pouring over sets of rapids spilling into the harbour and well-kept waterside homes, potential accommodation didn't really grab us as we drove through in the drizzle.

We drove through a number of other small towns, again without suitable accommodation and stopped at Liscomb Lodge where we checked out on of their riverside cottages. Unfortunately, there was one bed and a hide-a-bed in a very small area. Between it being cramped and the notion of anyone of us sleeping on a pullout, especially Anne, we turned it down.

Following Brenda's maxim of "let's just drive a little farther", we found Birchill B&B in Liscomb on Spanish Ship Bay. Our hosts, Tim and Roslyn, were lifetime locals as opposed to retirees moving in to the area to run a B&B as a hobby, as we had seen elsewhere. They have a lovely spot and have done a great job of converting their basement into two comfortable rooms with their own bathrooms. While Anne and Brenda settled in, Ron and I checked out the on site pond that Tim keeps stocked with speckled trout.

We snacked in our room along with some wine as a rainstorm passed through, followed by a nice sunset. We had a great night's sleep on their very comfortable beds with fresh, crisp linen.

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