We had arranged to stay in Granada so we could visit the very popular Alhambra palace and I had researched and booked a hotel next to the Alhambra so we could beat the crowds but it wasn't to be. We were so close to it and yet we never got past the gates. I'd managed to lose my sunglasses and while this isn't the end of the world for most people unfortunately with my eye problems it was a real deal breaker. We did however catch the bus down into Granada city and explored the old Muslim quarter, the Albayin with their cobblestone streets and walled gardens. We saw the Capella Real where the monarchs Isabel and Fernando are buried. Walking around the city we came across the persistent gypsy women with their sprigs of rosemary for good luck. Mind you I don't think it works as most of the gypsies didn't seem to have had any good luck recently. We walked up and down the Gitano(gypsy)quarter in Sacromonte for wonderful views across the Darro up to the Alhambra. Granada still does free tapas with drinks and we were spoilt for choice with bars everywhere. The city has a vibrant nightlife and their were people hanging out of bars everywhere. We had a wonderful meal before catching the bus back to the hotel. It doesn't take long to get used to the hanging jamons in all the bars. The Spanish are devoted to their cured meats such as chorizo, salchichon and lomo, but the jamon (ham) is king.