Exploring Canadian Backroads Coast to Coast 2007 travel blog

The fish plant at L'Anse-Au-Loop Labrador

L'Anse-Au-Loop Labrador

Some folks like it here - Honest!

Red Bay Labrador

The sun actually came out for a few minutes at the end...

The original plan for today was to head north along to Labrador coast to Mary's Harbour and take a boat tour to Battle Harbour, a restored outport fishing village on an island. Instead, we had no real option but to stay put and try to dry out our gear from last night's storm. Fortunately, the place we were staying had a laundry so we were able to dry our clothes and riding gear and by noon we were pretty much ready to venture out once more.

We decided to get a few groceries first so we could cook ourselves a good meal. The lady at the post office told us we could buy seafood from the office in the back of the fish plant in the next town so we headed there first and found some scrumptious scallops. We were also able to find a frozen steak and some frozen vegetables in a small store so were were in business.

The wind was still blowing hard but it was not raining so we headed north to Red Bay, a National Historic Site. This bay was the site of the first whaling camp in North America, established by the Basques from spain in the early 1500's. Parks Canada had done a very good job with this site including a movie on the underwater archeological excavation of a ship sunk here in the 1500's. It was well worth visiting.

The scenery here is beautiful. High cliffs, rocky bluffs and starkly rugged treeless hills and valleys. It is definately a true wilderness but very desolate. It congures up feelings of lonelness and isolation like no other place I have visited. Perhaps the weather is exagerating the landscapes.

By the time we were ready to leave Red Bay it was raining and blowing hard. We high-tailed it back to the cottage, which was half an hour away, and managed to get there without getting completely soaked again.

Supper was a real treat and we met a couple of guys next door who were working on a highway bridge in the next town. They were from Newfoundland and they too were very tired of the rain. It had been foggy and raining for 8 days straight. They also said that at least the rain was keeping the mosquitoes and black flys down. When they first arrived "they were so thick it looked like the commercial where buddy sticks his arm in the box of mosquitoes."

In the morning we will decide whether to head north to Mary's Harbour or south to the ferry back to Newfoundland. This is supposed to be a vacation, not an endurance challange.

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