Koh Lipe & Koh Lanta explored

We have spent the last 2.5 weeks on the islands of Koh Lanta and the far-smaller Koh Lipe (pop. 700). Both of these islands are predominantly Muslim and on Koh Lanta, we have become accustomed to being woken with a call to prayer at around 4.30am. Luckily, the local Imam has a tuneful voice, which gently merges with the sound of the sea lapping close by to our bungalow.

For the first part of this time, we stayed at Fisherman’s Cottage on Koh Lanta, unusually run exclusively by young tattooed men and, particularly, Kun, Oh and Lap with the support of two chefs who unfailingly produced the most exquisite Thai food, making it impossible for us to stray much further than where we were staying. When we did venture out, it was to experience the beauty of local island outcrops, some no larger than a single fine white powder sand beach and a few coconut trees and the most calm, crystal clear blue-turquoise waters in the world.

Back at the ranch, daily life consists of watching the boys encouraging their many caged birds (Bulu) warbling and chirruping in their cages. Their feathered friends are pampered and sung to almost obssessionally as, in prize competitions, their songs and appearance can yield considerable sums of money to the winners.

Whilst Laz was with us, he became an honorary member of their daily 5-a-side footie team, played on a rough patch of ground cleared between the coconuts, sweating profusely for some 40 minutes. Alan joined in on the first game, but sadly, realised it was either time to hang up his boots for good or do his back a permanent mischief.

We did eventually manage to tear ourselves away for the 4-hour speedboat trip to the neighbouring island of Koh Lipe, again inhabited mainly by the sea gypsies (Chao Lay), who, unlike most Thai people, are quite chunky in appearance and more like their Malaysian neighbours (possibly due to the widespread availability of banana and cinnamon pancakes!)

We had heard reports of on-going trouble in the far south of Thailand – mainly as a result of unrest within the more extreme muslim population, but we saw nothing of this, instead we could see nothing but a relaxed and happy people who appreciate and love the simple life of island living. Of course, it’s always difficult to get really under the skin of what’s going on – especially without the language skills, but the boys at Fisherman’s Cottage told us something of the difficulties in ‘opting out’, mainly relating to a corrupt and troublesome Thai mafia who make their lives difficult from time to time.

After several nights and two different beaches (Sunrise and Pattaya) on Koh Lipe, we decided to return to the tranquillity of Koh Lanta and Fisherman’s Cottage. The friends we had met their previously, Samantha and Georgina, two PR freelancers from London, were surprisingly still there and on their 16th night! Having said goodbye to Laz in Koh Lipe, we easily settled back into the laziness of hot days, playing backgammon (Vix 39, Alan 19 to date) and generally not doing anything very much apart from the snorkelling (see Alan’s report, below).

Tonight, we are catching a night train north for the final few days in Kanchanaburi near the border with Burma and hoping to pick up another motorbike for the mountainous area north of there, before returning to Bangkok on Sunday and the long flight home on Monday night.

Snorkelling Trips: Southern Thailand (Alan’s report)

Manta Ray and Whale shark

Over the last four weeks we have been extremely fortunate to have snorkelled in the best places in the Andaman Sea and reputably in SE Asia. We have been able to share this experience at various times with Liz, Barry and Laz. The visibility in most places was remarkable. Vix and I were extremely lucky to be in the water and swim closely to both a Manta Ray and Whale Shark on separate days. These experiences are usually only the preserve of divers, but luck sometimes comes our way…These are huge fish species, and the sight of an 8-10metre long whale shark and 4 metre wide Manta Ray have been etched within our memory forever. Frightening but exhilarating, we have since learnt that neither is a threat to humans.

1. Ko Mak Snorkel with Koh Mak Divers and Liz and Barry

From Ao ThongLhang

-Ko Rang

2. Evening Trip with Laz and Pete from Railay Beach

-Ko Poda

-Bat cave

3. Day Trip with Laz and Pete from Ao Nang from Hat Noppharat Thara

Ko Bele and surrounding island outcrops

4. Day trip with Laz and divers from Koh Lanta, Saladan Jetty

-Koh Haa

5. Day trip with Laz from south of Koh Lanta from Kangtiang Bay

-4 Islands trip

-Koh Ma (Mha)

-koh Chuak (Chueak)

-Koh Mook (Muuk) (Emerald Cave)

-Koh Ngai (hai)

6. Day trip with Laz and own boat Koh Lipe

-Ko Adang

-Koh Rawi

-Koh Hin Ngam

-Koh Jabang

7. Day trip on Longtail Boat from K o Lipe

-Koh Hin Son

-Ko Lok Goi

-Koh Dong

-Koh Phaung ..Manta Ray

8. Day trip with speedboat to Koh Rok

-Koh Rok…..Whale Shark

Feb 17, 2009

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