Vix & Alan in S E Asia Thailand & Laos 08-09

Thai islands 2 - Ao Nang & Koh Lanta Jan 31, 2009

Alan writes: Sitting on board the Ao Nang Princess passenger ferry taking us from Ao Nang to the island of Koh Lanta, situated in the Andaman Sea. Vix and Laz have greased up, and are basking in glorious sunshine (32 degrees) at the front of the boat extending their run of backgammon games.

It’s early morning and we have just left the Lai Thai resort in Ao Nang 9Krabi Province) after six nights. Our friend Peter, who joined us from his return from Australia left last night for the onward journey back to London, via Bangkok. We had really relaxing days in a most beautiful setting, lounging by the wonderful pool and venturing out on day/evening snorkelling trips to the islands of Ko Poda, Ko Hua and Ko Hung. The most enjoyable and unforgetable day involved a morning boat trip to Railay West beach where we joined 30 people for an afternoon and sunset snorkelling experience as well witnessing the nightly exodus of thousands of bats from a cave. Met lovely people and had great fun, with the journey home adding some extra excitement-- a choppy and damp longtail boat trip in the dark, three up on a motorcycle and the back of a Toyota Hilux truck.

In the evenings we sought out the best places to eat seafood and had some special dishes

of curried crab, lobster, grouper fish, tiger prawn. Pete and Laz also had some good Thai massages. It was sad to say goodbye to Pete who was in good form, apart from his pool playing. He left me with a new front crawl swimming technique and some great memories.

Although a similar boat to the ones that we frequently used island hopping two years ago, the passenger profile has changed dramatically. There are still the youngsters (under 30s) with back packs seeking isolated bamboo huts, but there are now greater numbers of people of all ages seeking the ever increasing supply of bungalow resorts with swimming pools, TV, good beds and hot water showers!! The rucksacks are being replaced by “hybrid” luggage carriers, shoulder straps and wheels. As this type of independent traveller is now being charged almost European prices in these newer boutique resorts their expectations of service are high. I get the impression from listening to people and reading reviews that these are rarely met. However, I am sure the scenery rarely disappoints.

We have always wanted to visit Koh Lanta but having done some research, we’re a little worried that we might to be too late to be ahead of the mass tourism or the initial wave of destruction that signals its imminent arrival. The middle and south of the island remain predominately occupied by local families running small resorts and I have pre-booked Fisherman’s Cottage, which consists of eleven clean, but very basic bamboo huts/bungalows situated on the beach front. The reviews I have read have been outstanding. Still a bit of a risk of flak from Vix and Laz, going into huts with no hot water, from a three star establishment.. I am sure it will be fine.

We have now been on the boat for two hours, and can see Laz has given up the backgammon. The sea is clear and beautiful. The small port is now visible. I hope the promised transport is at the pier to take us to Klong Khong beach which is in the middle of the island on the West coast.

Vix adds: Koh Lanta remains a beautiful island - as yet unspoilt by large-scale holiday developments. The "Tour Guide" has sourced a wonderfully rustic bamboo hut near the beach, which also happens to have a TV showing live premiership footie so he and Laz are in their element. They have also managed to get in on the regular 5-a-side footie match which the local boys play at 4.30pm each day, although Alan's back may not withstand the physical assault for too much longer...