Upper Ferry to Cape St. George, Newfoundland
Aug 22, 2007
|Once again we were greeted by a bright sunny morning although the temperature was cool at about 15 C. The little cabin we stayed in overlooked the Great Codroy River estuary and the water was smooth as glass.
The TransCanada highway is the only continuous road up the west coast so we headed north on the TransCanada a few km to the next backroad that looped along the coast. Shortly after leaving Port aux Basque heading north the terrain changed considerably. Rather than brush covered rock we were now riding through forrested mountains. Other than the size of the evergreen trees, which are fairly small, we could be in riding through the interior of BC. In fact it looks very similar to Northern Ontario.
Throad we took towards the coast was paved and winding but the scenery was mostly bush and we did not get much of a view of the coast. We find a small cove with a tiny fishing harbour near a place called Jeffreys but otherwise there was very little of interest so back to the TransCanada.
Our next stop was to be Stephensonville in the Port Au Port Bay area. We stopped at Tim Hortons to get the lowdown on the area. We had found that all we need to do is pull into a Tim Hortons to get any information we need. The bike, with Alberta plates, is like a magnet that draws people over to talk.
We immediately met a couple from St. Johns that had grown up in the area. They told us about things to see and places to stay in the area and throughout Newfoundland. While we were talking another fellow came by and gave me his card. He runs a website called Ride The Rock dedicated to adventure motorcycling in Newfoundland and Labrador. He gave us the lowdown on the Port Au Port area and information on the railbed trail, which I had been considering having a go at.
With our information at hand we made a reservation at the Inn At The Cape as recommended by our friends from St. John's and began our tour of the peninsula.
It was a lovely ride along the ocean with vistas at every turn. One of the highlights was a stop at hidden falls, which in fact we would never have found without the advice we received at Tim Hortons. It was a beautiful beach with two waterfalls and facinating rock formations. While there we spotted something in the water which looked like were dolphins although they were quite a distance away so it was hard to tell.
We arrived at the Inn and had just enough time to get ready for dinner, which was included with the room. The room was amazingly large and had everything you could ever need including robes & slippers. From the deck overlooking the ocean, guests could watch the whales that reside in the bay. The dinner was served in a large airy dining room and was also amazing. We were greated with a choice of red or white wine and were introduced to the other guests, one of which was a member of parlament from Quebec doing research on french language in the area. The room rate - $99.00 which included both dinner and breakfast!
We took a walk down to the shore after dinner to watch the boiling schools of mackeral at the surface which was quite a site. Apparently this is what keeps the whales in the bay. What a great find this place turned out to be.