Monday, September 10
From Birch Harbor, we went on up, or "down east", to Lubec, Maine on Sunday - the easternmost town in the U.S.A. On the way we took a short detour down the Starboard Peninsula to Jasper Beach - a stony beach with lots of green jasper stones. polished by the sea.
At Lubec, we crossed into Canada, over to Campobello Island - most noted as being the Franklin Delano Roosevelt summer "cottage" - all 34 rooms of it. There is a great Provincial Park campground called Herring Cove, with a nine-hole golf course that FDR had built. We are definitely in off-season (or shoulder season actually), and we had a choice of most of the campsites. The FDR house and grounds has become a joint U.S.-Canadian park, and we did a self-guided tour of the house, with docents stationed around the house with information about the various parts of it. This is where FDR spent his boyhood summers, and with his own family after he was married to Eleanor. It is also where he was stricken with polio as a young adult and father. We visited this wonderful place on Monday, and then drove around the island - it was raining by now - out to the East Quoddy Light. On the way back, we got some lobster stew takeout which made a great supper. We then "hunkered" down at our campsite as the rain got heavier.
In the morning, on Tuesday, it was still pouring, but we set out for the Deer Island ferry, which is an open barge pushed on the side by a tugboat. This was a perfect day for traveling, and the sea was beautiful and foggy. We drove the length of Deer Island, a fairly wild place, to catch the next ferry (another open barge) to the New Brunswick mainland. From there we drove to the town of St. Andrews, where it continued to rain, but we are settled into our oceanfront campsite at the Kiwanis Campground, with full hook-up and Wi-Fi - and a wonderful unimpeded view of the sea. After lunch, Anne braved the mist and fog and rain and walked the mile or so into town. The main street is called Water Street, and has a lot of shops and restaurants - including a yarn store! Of course, Anne went in and it is a great place - they have a website - www.cricketcove.com - and they specialize in luxury yarns. She did not leave empty-handed. There are many homes here that are over 200 years old, and although it is a resort town, with a Fairmont Hotel (the Algonquin), it still has a nice small-town, laid-back atmosphere. It sort of feels like a place Classic Journeys would go for a walking tour. The drizzle turned into a heavy rain again by evening, but the next morning clear.