The hiway Navojoa - Mazatlan - Guadalajara is very good. Sometimes 4 lane, mostly 2, progressively from semiarid and flat to very green, lots of agriculture (field crops, orchards) with low mountains in the E,. Travel on TAP bus line has been better (more prompt, comfortable)vs ELITE.
Two nites in Guadalajara Hostel - very reasonable, close to everything and nice folks. Dorm w/ IH card only 125p ($10 US).
I can finally say we have arrived in MX proper w/ sights and scents of food everywhere on 2nd floor of the Big Market (see pics). Walking the streets of Historic District, churches everywhere, the Cathedral (1561) and plazas and street people, singers, dancers, hawkers. A fantastic look into the mind of Michael Angelo of the Americas...José Clemente Orozco, a visionary whose one hand and legal blindness did not interupt his genius and the extraordinary creations in the Hospicio Cabañas (Orphanage for 450 children)...murals reflecting a truely enlightened look at mankind. We were so lucky to have an English speaking guide who could open our eyes & minds to who he was and what he saw.
We later fell for the Tapatio Tour not knowing it was in Spanish...could have gone to Tlaquepague (small colonial artist community nearby) for 12p but instead paid 60p. Now for tourists, the old colonial homes on narrow streets sell everything for the grand high ceiling colonial homes of the wealthy, ha! Very impressive art everywhere and of every sort. Also, the Ceramic Museum makes it´s fabulous statement with works by every conceiveable ceramic artist imaginable. The plaza was filled with music from many youthful bands, really a joy to watch and listen. Wish I could upload a video of them! Too long, boo hoo! Our evening complete with dinner at La Chata, once again too much food - next time I´m trying the traditional pre-Spanish dish, Pozole!