With an unexpected extra few days in Vientiane (and a forced journey by air) we had to return to in order to get our Thai visa following a change in regulations, we spent the time exploring some parts we'd previously missed. This included the Buddha Park, 25 km south of the city, created in the late 50s by an individual - 'priest, monk, guru, sage, artist' according to the Footprint Laos guide, who undertook a similar venture across the Mekong where he took up residence to escape the communists and proceeded to build an 'equally revolting and bizarre concrete themepark for religious schizophrenics'. Actually, we rather enjoyed the park, which consisted of a large number of rather strange re-inforced concrete statues, some of which were falling to bits. It made an interesting outing. The park was strangely emotive and funky. We also visited the national and revered symbol of Laos and most significant cultural and religious icon, Wat That Luang built in 1566.
We 'upgraded' ourselves to a rather nice hotel in the centre of town (The Tai-Pan) enjoying a couple of days of very civilised living including complimentary fruit bowl, wifi access and swimming pool before embarking on our next round of travelling.
After picking up our visas at around 2.30 pm, and returning our hired scooter, we headed off for the border, arriving in Sukhothai in Thailand almost exactly 24 hours later. The following journey was actually quite straightforward to plan and execute but involved eight modes of transport, covering around 500 km at a total cost of £17.00 each including a night at the Khon Kaen Inn Hotel (which, admittedly has seen better days).
1. Taxi to Friendship Bridge (50,000 Kip c£4.00)
2. Public Bus to the border town of Nong Khai (2,500 kip x 2 -50p)
3. Shared Tuk Tuk to Nong Khai Railway Station (25,000 kip for 4 people, c50p each)
4. Train from Nong Khai Station to Khon Kaen (35 BHT each, £1.50 each, 3rd class). About 3 hours.
5. Tuk Tuk from the station to our hotel (40 BHT/80p)
6. Tuk Tuk to the Public bus station (50 BHT/£1.00)
7. From Khon Khai to Phitsanlok (220 BHT each/£4.00) About 5.5 hours
8. Continued on same bus for another 42 BHT each (85p) to Sukhothai - about 1.5 hours
9. "Jumbo" to Sukhothai new town (60 BHT/£1.25)
The entire journey cost us approx. £21.25 total for 2 people!!
We especially enjoyed the 3rd Class train journey, surrounded by many locals who dozed around us until waking from their slumbers with the arrival of troupes of vendors bearing chicken and pork on large skewers, baskets of fruit and nuts, pre-packed rice 'n veg and some fluffy white stuff that looked like candy floss and proved very popular. These vendors went up and down the carriages, repeatedly selling to the very same people who'd only just five minutes before got 'snacked up'. The carriage was filled with munching, slurping, crunching and tooth-picking before reverting to 'sleep mode'. We played travel Scrabble which seemed to interest the ticket collector.
The bus journey to Sokhuthai took us through two national parks, wonderful scenary and signposts warning of 'Elephants Crossing' ('though we failed to spot any). The protected National Park on the left hand side of the road contrasted significantly with the right hand side of the road which was not protected, and consequently subject to rather intense slash-and-burn agriculture. We were most indebted to the driver's assistant who placed us in his seat at the front of the bus so the long journey was incredibly comfortable. We got into the swing of snacking, purchasing some fresh grapefruit which came packaged with sugar and chillie flakes - yum!