|Hurricane Kyle is in the news today - Saturday, September 27
Once again we find ourselves in a 'Storm Watch' area, but this time under odder circumstances than in the Carolinas. This time we're in Nova Scotia. It is late September and the trees are turning. Two nights ago we had frost warnings, and now we find ourselves waiting out a storm. Not a good old Nor'easter mind you, but a tropical storm that has ambitions of becoming a hurricane.
But Saturday morning Kyle is still miles away, so we continued west on the south shore of Nova Scotia, toward our eventual rendezvous with the New Brunswick ferry. Our first stop was in a lovely little town called Mahone Bay where we checked out a pewter shop Madolyn has been reading about.
The shop is part of a new concept in Canada - called Enviromuseums. A business that manufactures unusual products opens it's doors to the public and puts on demonstrations of their processes and techniques, and sustains itself by selling it's products to the visitors. Amos Pewter is one of these enviromusuems and we spent several very interesting hours learning about the history of pewter and the processes involved in the manufacture of fine pewter objects and art.
From Mahone Bay we continued on to our destination which was the town of Lunenburg. Lunenburg is also on the south coast and it is a World Heritage Site that is home to the Atlantic Fisheries Museum. The town is old and historic, and it's waterfront is scenic and interesting. There are busy ship yards here, as well as a fishing fleet that still operates out of Lunenburg's port.
We entered the Fisheries Museum with only two hours to see it all, and for the next two hours we were kept extremely busy looking at the many great exhibits, and touring the two vessels the museum has open to the public. We've seen and learned a lot about fishing in the past few months, but the museum contained a lot of information that was new to us.
We watched a demonstration with a model of how a sailing schooner is launched, and we went aboard a '60's vintage side trawler, and the last of the wooden 'saltbank' sailing schooners, where we met a friendly man who was an old sea captain and a native of Newfoundland. Talking to him was an education in itself.
Inside there were many good exhibits, but one of the best was a number of paintings by a man named E. Earl Bailley. Earl was striken with polio when he was a child, and he grew up a paraplegic. He developed an interest in painting, and after learning to paint by holding the brush in his mouth he went on to paint both oils and watercolors for many years. He died in his sixties, and his paintings are in private and public collections all over the world. They are vibrant and colorful representations of the people and landscapes of the Maritime Provinces he knew and loved.
We ended the day with a fine fish dinner at an excellent restaurant in the museum's building, and after some confusion we found a good campground on the hill from which to ride out the impending hurricane. At bedtime it was still quite calm, but the warnings are serious on both the television and the internet. By the sound of the warnings the storm is scheduled to come very close to Lunenburg.
"Red sky in the morning . ." - Sunday, September 28
We woke to some breeze and an overcast sky. Several other campers are waiting it out here in Lunenburg's hilltop campground, including a nice couple from Alberta whom we met in Labrador at St. Mary's Harbour. Jim and Donna are full timers, and it was really good to see them again. As the day wore on the wind picked up steadily. The sky did not look particularly threatening, but mid afternoon the rain started and the gusts strengthened.
By 6:00 we decided to pull in our slide and cut down our wind resistance. TV broadcasts now are predicting the eye to make landfall somewhere in the Bay of Fundy and then roll over St. John, New Brunswick. Winds are estimated at 50 to 60mph sustained, with gusts up to 75 to 80. At this writing it is 7:00 Atlantic time on Sunday night. There is a lull as the eye goes by us, but the tail is expected to pick up the storm again in an hour or two. We are optimistic! :-)