2008 Keys 2 Canada travel blog

home of one great lobster supper!

a retro deco building inside and out

hedge carving

a chef holding up a lobster and a lobster holding up a...

mermaid

heading west on Highway 3

the sky doesn't look too bad yet

but there's a breeze and a light chop on the water

coming into the pretty little town of Mahone Bay

this is a town that draws you right in

Nova Scotia gets ready for Halloween while it's threatened by a tropical...

a little narrow for a motorhome - but colorful and inviting

turning trees and a few sprinkles of rain

Lunenburg - a World Heritage site and home to the Fishermen's Museum

Cape Sable - one of the museum's two vessels on exhibit

Lunenburg's harbor - a deep water port for an important fishing fleet

the pier with picnic tables made to look like dories

they use this model to demonstrate how a schooner is launched

they enlisted some of the audience to help knock out the blocks...

salted cod retains it's nutrients when the salt is soaked out

demonstration of how to build a skiff

some big ships call this port home

Cape Sable is a 1967 state of the art side trawler -...

the main deck is on a very steep pitch

view of several tall ships from the Cape Sable

Madolyn getting her sea legs

controls for the hoists and winches

tight quarters - but better than a submarine

the engine room below

galley

crew's mess

crew's quarters are in the stern of the ship right behind the...

the museum's other big vessel the Theresa E. Connor

last of the 'saltbank sailing vessels' that deployed dories to do the...

numbered baskets stored the dories' fishing gear

at the next slip the very famous Bluenose ll

the culpret that is wiping out the bottom habitat for many species...

Theresa E. Connor from the stern

a salty old wooden ketch

crew quarters

salt cod in the hold

dory 4 waiting to be deployed

wood replica of the world record 200+ pound cod

a very fine and detailed topographical map of the Grand Banks fishery...

one of the museum's many fine exhibits

trademarks of some of the fishery companies

E. Earl Bailley - a local man crippled by polio who painted...

our hilltop campground

our site to wait out the storm

view southeast - the direction it's coming from

the sky is not showing much yet

down at the harbor they're pulling boats out of the water

view from our hill

the lower campsites

the view mid afternoon

this is what we'll be seeing now until dark

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Model Schooner Launch


Hurricane Kyle is in the news today - Saturday, September 27

Once again we find ourselves in a 'Storm Watch' area, but this time under odder circumstances than in the Carolinas. This time we're in Nova Scotia. It is late September and the trees are turning. Two nights ago we had frost warnings, and now we find ourselves waiting out a storm. Not a good old Nor'easter mind you, but a tropical storm that has ambitions of becoming a hurricane.

But Saturday morning Kyle is still miles away, so we continued west on the south shore of Nova Scotia, toward our eventual rendezvous with the New Brunswick ferry. Our first stop was in a lovely little town called Mahone Bay where we checked out a pewter shop Madolyn has been reading about.

The shop is part of a new concept in Canada - called Enviromuseums. A business that manufactures unusual products opens it's doors to the public and puts on demonstrations of their processes and techniques, and sustains itself by selling it's products to the visitors. Amos Pewter is one of these enviromusuems and we spent several very interesting hours learning about the history of pewter and the processes involved in the manufacture of fine pewter objects and art.

From Mahone Bay we continued on to our destination which was the town of Lunenburg. Lunenburg is also on the south coast and it is a World Heritage Site that is home to the Atlantic Fisheries Museum. The town is old and historic, and it's waterfront is scenic and interesting. There are busy ship yards here, as well as a fishing fleet that still operates out of Lunenburg's port.

We entered the Fisheries Museum with only two hours to see it all, and for the next two hours we were kept extremely busy looking at the many great exhibits, and touring the two vessels the museum has open to the public. We've seen and learned a lot about fishing in the past few months, but the museum contained a lot of information that was new to us.

We watched a demonstration with a model of how a sailing schooner is launched, and we went aboard a '60's vintage side trawler, and the last of the wooden 'saltbank' sailing schooners, where we met a friendly man who was an old sea captain and a native of Newfoundland. Talking to him was an education in itself.

Inside there were many good exhibits, but one of the best was a number of paintings by a man named E. Earl Bailley. Earl was striken with polio when he was a child, and he grew up a paraplegic. He developed an interest in painting, and after learning to paint by holding the brush in his mouth he went on to paint both oils and watercolors for many years. He died in his sixties, and his paintings are in private and public collections all over the world. They are vibrant and colorful representations of the people and landscapes of the Maritime Provinces he knew and loved.

We ended the day with a fine fish dinner at an excellent restaurant in the museum's building, and after some confusion we found a good campground on the hill from which to ride out the impending hurricane. At bedtime it was still quite calm, but the warnings are serious on both the television and the internet. By the sound of the warnings the storm is scheduled to come very close to Lunenburg.

"Red sky in the morning . ." - Sunday, September 28

We woke to some breeze and an overcast sky. Several other campers are waiting it out here in Lunenburg's hilltop campground, including a nice couple from Alberta whom we met in Labrador at St. Mary's Harbour. Jim and Donna are full timers, and it was really good to see them again. As the day wore on the wind picked up steadily. The sky did not look particularly threatening, but mid afternoon the rain started and the gusts strengthened.

By 6:00 we decided to pull in our slide and cut down our wind resistance. TV broadcasts now are predicting the eye to make landfall somewhere in the Bay of Fundy and then roll over St. John, New Brunswick. Winds are estimated at 50 to 60mph sustained, with gusts up to 75 to 80. At this writing it is 7:00 Atlantic time on Sunday night. There is a lull as the eye goes by us, but the tail is expected to pick up the storm again in an hour or two. We are optimistic! :-)



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