Mark and Nadine's Arctic Expedition travel blog

The Dempster Highway

Down the Dempster

Our Rosie


Today we left Inuvik for our return trip down the Dempster Highway. Driving this road is a little like going through a 734-kilometer (460-mile) construction zone, but the scenery and the wildlife make you forget the dust and the bumps!

It was a beautiful day, and we made the two ferry crossings without incident. At one point a speeding pickup truck passing us in the other direction threw up a shower of loose gravel, chipping Rosie’s windshield in two places. Other than that, the Dempster didn’t do us any damage.

We stopped at the half-way point, Eagle Plains, to gas up. Comically, one of the two gas pumps there had an “Out of Order” sign on it, and the attendant couldn’t get the other pump to work either. We stood amid clouds of mosquitoes, swatting the air, struggling with the only working gas pump to be had in the next 230 miles. Finally, the attendant got enough gas out of the “Out of Order” pump to get us on our way.

Just south of Eagle Plains, Nadine spotted a young bull moose standing on the side of the road. No pictures this time, though, because he fled into the brush as soon as Nadine saw him.

We spent the night at Engineer Creek Territorial Campground, where the mosquitoes were almost as thick as they had been at Eagle Plains. But it was a day of beautiful sights!

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