Along the coast to Muros
Aug 26, 2015
|Wednesday, August 26
We spent a very quiet night except for the pleasant sound of the wind whistling thru the leaves. Last night we had decided to take a chance on the weather and head to the area of Fisterra the most western part of Spain. The weather forecast was predicting 80-90% chance of rain in all parts of northern Spain so it didn’t really matter where we went. We never expected to see N. America anyway so we won’t be disappointed; we will see what we will see.
Bill had remembered seeing a Super Mercado on the way to our campground last night so on the way out we stopped for some much needed supplies; food.
As we were driving along, I was studying the map and mentioned that I was not looking forward to finding our way around Ferral, a fairly large city it looked to me with a jumble of disconnected highways. He suggested that he could navigate while I drove. Great solution, I quickly jumped behind the wheel.
Within 30 minutes we were looking for a way to make a U-turn. I had to make a quick decision when we came to an intersection with traffic behind me, there was no signage to help me and Bill couldn’t find us on the map. Oops, I had a 50-50 chance of making the right turn and it was the wrong one.
All in all it was a pretty quick detour; over the bridge and we were on the right side of the Ria now AND Bill had found us on the map. Things were looking up.
Farther down the road we made a stop to reconnoitre. The city of A. Coruna was fast approaching and we needed to discuss our route around the city.
Bill assured me he wouldn’t lead me into the downtown core. Satisfied that we had a plan to avoid this very busy capital and port city of Galicia, we headed out.
Not 30 minutes later we were downtown!!!! In spite of our predicament I had to laugh. We were still on a 4-lane road but we were definitely in the heart of a wealthy metropolis; the 10’ wide beautiful promenade along the bay, the green gardens and trees that lined the boulevard, the meticulous and modern city on our left and a very busy port on our right, all testified to this.
My navigator seemed pretty confident that if we kept to our right we would just travel the perimeter of the city and pop out the other side.
We later discovered that the city lies along a northeast-pointing isthmus, with the port on its southeast side and the main beaches on the northwest. A mushroom-shaped headland stands 2 km north from the isthmus, with the wonderful broad pedestrian walkway circling its entire perimeter. AND we saw it all.
Fortunately, the traffic thinned out considerably just pass a naval yard and then out of nowhere we were back on the 4-lane highway.
I guess in Spain you can get un-lost as quickly as you can get lost!!
Not long after leaving Coruna we left the coast behind and headed across country toward the West coast and Fisterra. I drove through forests of pine trees and over huge ravines. Everything was lush and green. A few hours later I turned the wheel back to Bill and returned to my navigating responsibilities with less trepidation than earlier in the day.
Just pass Carballo the tollway stopped, they were in the process of pushing through to the coast but had not completed this last stretch as yet. The drizzle had turned to rain now but we carried on. A short distance down the road we passed a huge super store called, “Carrefour”. We looked at each other and said let’s go back. Be still my beating heart 2 shopping expeditions in one day.
An hour and a half later we came out of the store, the proud owners of an audio cable (I broke the last one), 2 covers for our I-Pads, a small window clothesline, groceries we had previous forgot and a new Tom Tom with all of Europe including Spain. This was a necessary expense as I was pretty convinced that without it only one of us would be returning to Canada.
As I packed the groceries away Bill unpacked our Tom Tom and briefly read the instructions (Yes, they were in English too) mounted it on the window and we were ready to explore again.
One tiny little problem; Bill couldn’t figure out where the drive button was but as he said at least we can tell where we are. That little blue chevron gave us a lot of confidence.
We knew we were approaching the coast as the landscape around us was starting to look barren and wind swept and huge carved granite structures were poking out of the ground.
When we arrived at the coast the women (who we hadn’t been officially introduced to) on the Tom Tom unit took us south to Cree for some reason so we had to make an about turn and head back north then west then south to Fisterra. As predicted, it was rainy and foggy but we were able to catch glimpses of this rugged, isolated coastline.
We were able to see enough of the coastline as we headed towards Carnota, even though it was shrouded in mist to realize why it was called the “Costa Da Morte”/Coast of Death. The roads wound around deep and winding inlets, wide sweeping bays, remote and empty beaches, tiny fishing villages, and up and over rocky headlands. I was an eerie, unspoilt shoreline.
I can believe the legends, like the one about villagers who put out lamps to lure passing ships on to deadly rocks.
Nestled into the northern coast of the Ria De Muros E Noia was our campground; A-Vouga. Situated on a cliff overlooking the water and a very rocky coast the campground was soaked and soggy. It was pouring rain. We chose a pitch across from the restaurant and reception building because that is usually where we find the best connections to Wi-Fi. Once parked and set up we were again grateful to be off the road as the rain pounded down.
Surprise, surprise it was the best hook up to Wi-Fi that we could remember over the past 4+ months. I started to upload pictures like mad while waiting for the dinner hour of 7pm to approach.
The restaurant overlooked the Ria, we couldn’t see very far across the water but a lone surfer kept our attention while we waited for dinner to arrive. Dinner a seafood grill, was served on a silver platter 2’ long and a foot wide with quite an assortment of seafood on it. We recognized the tiny clams in their shells, the scallops in a white sauce served in a larger shell, langoustines, shrimp, razor fish in their long shells and an assortment of white fish. It was all good and very fresh. Oops almost forgot the platter was decorated around the edge with lettuce, tomatoes and onion rings. It looked almost too good to eat.
Needless to say with that meal tucked away and a very exhausting day (2 shopping trips!) it didn’t take the two of us long to fall asleep with the pitter patter of rain on the roof and the distant roar of the surf.