Along the Northern Coast
Aug 25, 2015
|Tuesday, August 25th.
Today was another adventure – a good one. Galicia’s coastline, indented by over a dozen long Rias (estuaries or inlets) twists and turns for 1200 km.; over a straight line 350 km. It encompasses hundreds of mainly sandy beaches, awesome cliffs, dozens of islands and many large and small fishing ports.
We were mesmerized by the scenery on the coastal route we had chosen. The scenery changed quickly and drastically from thick forest to rocky coastline. Bill had to keep his eye on the road which kept disappearing in front of him. Although it was only wide enough for one vehicle in spots it was a 2 lane road.
Around another cove and suddenly we were in the tiny fishing village of Porto de Barqueiro. Literally we were on a 2 lane highway that suddenly turned into barely a one lane road through town. This road was signposted to take us to the northernmost part of Spain.
At one point Bill couldn’t believe the sign that was to lead us up a road barely wide enough for our vehicle. So at the turn he went right and we were met with a dead end. A local indicated the way to go, up the hill, with no choice that is where we headed. Only 2 problems there were 2 cars parked on this narrow road. Bill wanted to back up but there were 2 cars on our tail.
There were some very helpful residents who puffed out their chests pointed to themselves, then their eyes and did the come on wave. The lady who owned the first car came running out of a house waving her keys but they waved her off. They certainly had more confidence than we did. OK with just a whisper of room on both sides of the RV we squeezed through the first obstacle.
One more hurdle to go, and we were through the 2nd one. I did notice that this parked car had scrapes along its side view mirrors. We thanked the locals for their help and they waved us off with a nothing to it gesture. I commented to Bill, “I wonder if they were gynecologists?”.
As you could expect the drive along the peninsula was breathtaking. Through the forest I could catch a glimpse of the rocky coast below.
The road led us down to a lovely cove with beaches on one side and fishing boats at anchor on the other. We decided to stop at a little café perched on the harbour for lunch. Cars, RVs, trucks and boat carriers were parked helter skelter in a parking area. We managed to find a spot to park but not easily.
What a busy little restaurant at Porta de la Estaco de Bares.
Cars were pouring down the only road into this little village. I have no idea were they abandoned their cars or where they went once inside the restaurant.
We were sitting on the semi enclosed porch, watching the water and the people.
The ride back down the isthmus was full of trepidation as we were determined not to go through town.
Two wrong turns later and passing the same walker 3 times (he is probably still shaking his head) we were on the highway.
Next was a lighthouse at Cabo Ortegal. What incredible scenery we found along the way and at the jut of land where the lighthouse stool.
A couple and their daughter parked beside us wanted to chat, pointing at the German licence plate and our Canadian flag. There 30’s + yr. old daughter interpreted for her parents and them seemed quite interested in our trip. They were from Argentina and living in Madrid for now. Our next trip must be to Argentina they told us. We did the double European cheek to cheek air kiss and wished each other well.
The air was turning misty so we decided to head to our next campground; easier said than done. Across country through the hilly forested countryside and we found ourselves just north of Ferral looking for any signs of a campground.
Signs finally appeared and again we followed a narrow road toward the water to find the campground at a dead end. It was in a forest and quiet.